Author Topic: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.  (Read 35432 times)

Offline grubbers

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #300 on: December 19, 2016, 08:25:25 PM »
Mt. Willard is holding up pretty well after the rain on Sunday.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #301 on: December 21, 2016, 11:08:27 AM »
Willard is looking really good right now, as is Frankenstein. I think that the rain helped, especially since it got cold immediately after. It's actually been quite cold at night and moderate and sunny during the day. Perfect conditions for building ice!
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #302 on: December 21, 2016, 07:43:46 PM »
I am sure Kinsman, Webster and most other places are coming along nicely as well. .. no need to all flock to Willard just because it's in the news.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2016, 04:35:54 PM by M_Sprague »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #303 on: December 27, 2016, 11:21:41 AM »
I am sure Kinsman, Webster and most other places are coming along nicely as well. .. no need to all flock to Willard just because it's in the news.

true dat! Kinsman is forming up very well. when it chills down after this warm spell, things are going to be great!
Al Hospers
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #304 on: December 27, 2016, 08:04:49 PM »
most things , most everywhere are in.  spread the love arround and don't just go where the latest condition report sends you....

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #305 on: December 28, 2016, 09:29:41 PM »
I that in general things are only fair, as of Wednesday. I climbed Pegasus Rock Finish, Hobbit and Chia today. Pegasus in general was out, but the rock finish was good. Hobbit was very hard, and probably only doable by very strong climbers. Chia was mediocre at best. we did the ramp and there were places where it was quite hollow, one tricky place that required a rock step across and the top out was very thin. The pillars on the main part of Pegasus and some of the daggers in the middle of Chia make me uncomfortable. If you are climbing there, I would move through quickly, or avoid them altogether! Cave Route had been in, but is now assuredly out, as is Bob's Delight. I didn't look at Smear up close, but from the trestle it looked in poor shape. I saw pictures of Dracula and Standard from today and spoke to someone who climbed and they both are good.
Al Hospers
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #306 on: December 28, 2016, 11:06:27 PM »
it all took a hit from the thaw and things are funky but it still goes if you get after it ;)

Offline markvnh

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #307 on: December 29, 2016, 08:39:39 AM »
Taking tradmans advice along with having dealt with "holiday crowds" at the popular areas over the years - made the drive up to Dixville Notch. Plus this would be easy on my elbow! Parasol Gully probably hadn't been climbed in a long time. Good thing it's only a couple hundred yards from the road as the snow was waist deep without any sign of anyone being up recently. Climb was in great shape though the ice was quite brittle (also cold, snow and wind all day). The descent gully was a bit tedious and spooky as there was a crust of wind slab.

Anyone looking for "Scottish" style climbing can probably find some new mixed lines (I know there's a couple mixed lines).

Figured I'd post up in Crawford's section...
« Last Edit: December 29, 2016, 09:10:50 PM by markvnh »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #308 on: December 29, 2016, 11:28:21 AM »
it all took a hit from the thaw and things are funky but it still goes if you get after it ;)

while that's true, I just don't quite agree with this... ;-)

Quote
most things, most everywhere are in.
Al Hospers
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #309 on: December 29, 2016, 12:18:56 PM »
what i mean is that most areas have pleanty of ice to climb and in is relative. if you need 22cm screws all day long a lot of stuff that gets climbed regularly is never in... 
Mark, i got spooked over there by the snow a few times..  Seems like that trail is never broken in ;)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #310 on: December 29, 2016, 12:21:22 PM »
I think its time to accept the fact that 13cm is the new standard screw..

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #311 on: December 29, 2016, 12:42:26 PM »
I think its time to accept the fact that 13cm is the new standard screw..

WELL, I don't disagree with that!
Al Hospers
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Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #312 on: January 04, 2017, 10:20:40 PM »
Great day at Franks today. From the bridge Amphitheater looked like:

Smear: Good to go
Pegasus: Rock Finish Good, direct finish meh
Hobbit: Good
Chia: Still thin on regular top out, direct finish looks good
Cave Route kinda baked
Bob's is OUT

Trestle flows look good, and Trestle slabs (multiple parties TRing today)

Waterfall looks good.

Standard Left looks pretty good. Standard was fun plastic hooking before we traversed into Penguin.

Penguin 2nd pitch is a little funky but fun, 2nd half is great

Hanging Gardens need more time (please let the pillars grow)

Dracula right is do-able but could use the cold weather coming.

Dracula let was super fun cauliflower hooking but a shower mid-pitch with todays warm temps, and the top-out was iffy so I stepped right at the top to better ice.

All in all awesome shape for first week of January!

Some video from our day today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGq-Dant74M

Happy climbing!

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Crawford Notch: Frankenstein, Mt Willard, Mt Webster, etc.
« Reply #313 on: February 19, 2017, 04:30:07 PM »
From the road it looked like the numbered gullys were toasted today?