Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[apbt1976]

Champ I do not know WTF you are talking about on that one.  Al said is was a monster fall ( correct) and pointed out that it was a huge runout. I pointed out to Al that  25ft runout on grade 5 is normal to some of these strong old farts. How you twist that into something negative is beyond me

Would you guys cut the shit and let what is be and have some respect. Climbers turning this thread into anything other than a show of CLEAR support is just plain rude and arrogant!

If you actually climb you know well enough it is very dangerous.

[lucky luke]

YOU must misunderstand my post! No way do I in any way disrespect or treat him as a newb.

Sorry tradmanclimbz. I made the mistake. I red all the post and fall on yours because it was the last one, without reading it in detail.

I was a little bit up set. Looking at beginer playing with mono point, leachless and without the technique of the climber on repentance make me mad for two reason. First I respect technique develop by the last generation because it is an evolution that a climber most learn in his life of climber. Second, I don't want that an other friend died while he/she climbe.

sorry for my note on your post. i will read the next post now.

[lucky luke]

Champ I do not know WTF you are talking about on that one.  Al said is was a monster fall ( correct) and pointed out that it was a huge runout. I pointed out to Al that  25ft runout on grade 5 is normal to some of these strong old farts. How you twist that into something negative is beyond me

I was the one who was negative this time. sorry.

[tradmanclimbz]

Champ I am dissapointed that a memorial thread got turned into a squable and nitpicking fest.  That pretty much rest on you.

[robrox]

Champ I do not know  you are talking about on that one.  Al said is was a monster fall ( correct) and pointed out that it was a huge runout. I pointed out to Al that  25ft runout on grade 5 is normal to some of these strong old farts. How you twist that into something negative is beyond me

Yeah, I'm mystified as well.

Some days the rope just stays in the pack and up we go, other days it's stitched up with pro.  Age and experience help us to know the diff before we set out on a pitch.

The massive clotting behind major bone breaks is a good enough suspect for Jack's death.  I didn't know the man so I couldn't say if he had risk factors for cardiac issues.  Just last week Sarah Burke tore a tiny vessel in her neck and today (19Jan2012) she lost her battle. Such a little thing with such consequence.

Let us hope that we have the strength of character to avoid second guessing and move on with the lessons when we actually have all the facts we need to do so.

I am sure we will see something precise about it in ANAM.  I can wait until then.

[lucky luke]

Some days the rope just stays in the pack and up we go, other days it's stitched up with pro.  Age and experience help us to know the diff before we set out on a pitch.

It is what I stick on it.

I never said that Jack was from the old generation directly or indirectly. I said that day he took a decision and it was not the good in that case, ANAM will bring us more information probably

I never say that rockytop and Doug made a bad decision in placing eight ice screw in a pitch. Before, placing an ice screw was harder and took ten minutes. If your pitch is twenty minutes long and you place two more pro, you double the time of the climb an increase the danger of a fall. Falling of ten or twenty feet is the same in the air. so, deciding to place few pro to reach the top or deciding to place more in case of a fall is very personal, or a team decision because you must trust your belayer.

Krauker talk his when you have in a text an indirect feeling that all is wrong: because he his from the old generation, because you don't want that people climb with the same chalenge, because he fall 60 feet, because he don't place enought pro, because it is the old way to climb. it is what I remember of what you wrote.

Who talk about the guide book he wrote, who talk about his expedition on nepal, who say that his technique his good, but he make a mistake that day.

People think that it is easy to have experience, but it take a lot of time. If you can not trust the legend, you will just trust those who was scare by there shade.   

[robrox]

Until the details are known and the chain of events are available, I suggest we just wait on it.

We aren't going to get anything worth learning out of speculations, no matter how well they are intended.

Thank You.

[strandman]

i'm pretty  sure jack had done Bridalveil dozens of times. he either screwed up or condition were not optimal, maybe both.

RIP .. Jack

[SA]

I spend alot of time on Supertopo, in fact everyday, since I'm retired and do what the hell I want.

If you want to find out how much Jack Roberts was respected by the climbing community at large, (old school), then check out his thread on Supertopo. He was much loved by many, and had one hell of a climbing record. Many pictures of him as well.

[eyebolter]

RIP, but frankly I'm flabbegasted that more ice climbers don't die regularly.  He did not run it out any more than your average ice climber does every weekend.   They don't fall is all.

[ELM]

Jack's climbing partners wrote about the fall here:
 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-fall.html
My pryor post on this topic was wrong. He appears to have died just from massive trauma from the fall..."Jack died of a Hemo Pneumo Thorax.  Blood from his broken ribs and subsequent internal injuries filled his chest cavity and compressed his heart and lungs to the point they no longer worked.  He had six broken ribs on his upper right back(?) side, and a dislocated and hairline fractured hip."
Sad.