Author Topic: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil  (Read 1979 times)

Offline robrox

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RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« on: January 17, 2012, 01:44:52 PM »
More here: http://rockandice.com/news/1771-jack-roberts-killed-on-bridalveil-falls

Sad news.

Watch your topknots out there!
One metal knee, one natural knee...accurate weather forecasting by both.

DLottmann

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2012, 06:00:25 PM »
RIP, he is a legend. Nice video at the bottom of the article... not about the accident but the climb itself...

Offline strandman

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2012, 06:17:07 PM »
Bouchard refered to jack as a legend- good enough for me.  I met Him when i was just a pup and such a nice guy.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2012, 06:39:55 PM »
More here: http://rockandice.com/news/1771-jack-roberts-killed-on-bridalveil-falls

Sad news.

Watch your topknots out there!

As the season begin slowly, we didn't begin to train on easy ground before the real season. Actually, every thing is forming. Just be carefull, you are more prepare when you begin to ice climb in november and the objectif that you want to do in january without training could look easy, but could be harder.

When I buy my ice tool, in july, I just want to try it. It was a late season too and in december I had the opportunity to go climbing. I did a column...When I kick in the ice, my feet past true the column and my boot received the water of the waterfall. The ice was two or three inches ticks. We bail at the top. It was stupid after all.     

DLottmann

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2012, 06:45:53 PM »
Nice quick derailing effort Champ. 139 words that have nothing to do with the topic.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2012, 11:38:55 PM »
Nice quick derailing effort Champ. 139 words that have nothing to do with the topic.
"According to locals, Bridalveil has been in difficult condition this year, with a roof on the first pitch and a very steep pillar on the second pitch where Roberts fell. Yesterday (January 15) the second pitch was reportedly wet."  (from http://rockandice.com/news/1771-jack-roberts-killed-on-bridalveil-falls)

In my post, I talk about condition when the winter is difficult, exactly what they wrote in the article. I am sure that the climber was good: "Bouchard refered to jack as a legend". Any climber refered as a legend by bouchard is some one who like to climb. We don't know what happen. But I am sure that Jack Roberts like to climb and bring people to talk about safety. Otherwise, he won't have climbed Bridalveil at 59.

I think that what I wrote is a better memorial than to be happy by a video where a guy died, like you did. Like a proof that climbing is dangerous. Like Krakauer did in his book into the wild. 

Offline robrox

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2012, 08:03:22 AM »
While I got where champ was going, and got it right away, not everyone might get it so easily.

Unlax a bit.  One of the best has gone on ahead without us.  It's his life we should celebrate.  His passing will be tough for family and friends.  They deserve to be supported and Jack remembered.

Peace
One metal knee, one natural knee...accurate weather forecasting by both.

DLottmann

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2012, 08:50:47 AM »
Nice quick derailing effort Champ. 139 words that have nothing to do with the topic.
...
I think that what I wrote is a better memorial than to be happy by a video where a guy died, like you did...

If you re-read my post you’ll see I only made reference of the video and that it was not about the accident.

RIP Jack.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2012, 09:17:28 AM »
Dman, I understand the sens of obnoxious now.

robrox, I am sorry about that battle. I hope that you can talk and remembere with friends who climb with you and Jack. You probably share good moment. I red the text they wrote about jack and I have the impression that he did a lot for climbing. 

Offline strandman

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2012, 04:09:28 PM »
Back to the accident for a bit... jack went about 60' and was pretty busted up, but alive. he actually died from a heart attack during  evacuation.

Offline ELM

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2012, 04:37:43 PM »
Sounds like he shot a clot from the hip fracture and that caused the MI. That's why large bone fractures are life-threatening situations. That said; sad situation, sounds like he was an amazing climber and a really nice guy.
Ed Matt
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2012, 05:35:49 PM »
you know...60'...that's a really long fall! especially on ice. unless something pulled he must have been what, 25' above his last piece? and it was a hard climb too. yeesh...
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2012, 08:17:03 PM »
Those strong older generation ice climbers that is how they do it. When Rockytop and Doug climbed Mainline a few winters ago they only placed 8 screws.  Pretty sure that included the belay?  Even if you climb 20ft over a screw on skinny rope with stretch and some slack in the system you are gonna take a monster fall...

Offline lucky luke

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2012, 08:30:35 PM »
Those strong older generation ice climbers that is how they do it. When Rockytop and Doug climbed Mainline a few winters ago they only placed 8 screws.  Pretty sure that included the belay?  Even if you climb 20ft over a screw on skinny rope with stretch and some slack in the system you are gonna take a monster fall...

Common guy, be honest: Who was not impress by the solo climber in the yosemite this summer...is he old style at 24 or 25?.

At his level of knowledge you know that placing a pro will or not hold a fall in what you found. Running out is some time more a solution than being tired after placing three ice screw that will not hold any thing. Futher more, we don't have any idea of how much pro he used and how fall his belayer drop him. Did he have heart problem before his fall?

If you climb today, it is because some of them survive to gave you the chalenge of climbing safely.   Most of them survive, but 41 years in the sharp end and one mistake, it is just sad that you treat him as a newbye. 

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: RIP JR ...Jack Roberts fell off Bridalveil
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2012, 09:09:46 PM »
Champ I do not know  you are talking about on that one.  Al said is was a monster fall ( correct) and pointed out that it was a huge runout. I pointed out to Al that  25ft runout on grade 5 is normal to some of these strong old farts. How you twist that into something negative is beyond me >:(
« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 06:01:31 AM by tradmanclimbz »