Some days the rope just stays in the pack and up we go, other days it's stitched up with pro. Age and experience help us to know the diff before we set out on a pitch.
It is what I stick on it.
I never said that Jack was from the old generation directly or indirectly. I said that day he took a decision and it was not the good in that case, ANAM will bring us more information probably
I never say that rockytop and Doug made a bad decision in placing eight ice screw in a pitch. Before, placing an ice screw was harder and took ten minutes. If your pitch is twenty minutes long and you place two more pro, you double the time of the climb an increase the danger of a fall. Falling of ten or twenty feet is the same in the air. so, deciding to place few pro to reach the top or deciding to place more in case of a fall is very personal, or a team decision because you must trust your belayer.
Krauker talk his when you have in a text an indirect feeling that all is wrong: because he his from the old generation, because you don't want that people climb with the same chalenge, because he fall 60 feet, because he don't place enought pro, because it is the old way to climb. it is what I remember of what you wrote.
Who talk about the guide book he wrote, who talk about his expedition on nepal, who say that his technique his good, but he make a mistake that day.
People think that it is easy to have experience, but it take a lot of time. If you can not trust the legend, you will just trust those who was scare by there shade.