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Author Topic: Training for 2012 Goals  (Read 1763 times)

Offline tks

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Training for 2012 Goals
« on: January 18, 2012, 02:45:39 PM »
Had a pretty decent end of the season for 2011, given the work and family schedule.

So now I've started thinking about goals for 2012 and how to reach them. I finished last year reaching my onsight level into the 9+/10a range.

For this year I've broken down my goals into the short term and end of season time ranges:

Short Term:
Intimidation (Cathedral Ledge)


End of Season Time Frame:
Duet Direct
VMC DD

Any thoughts from you folks that have been around on what type of training you'd do to get ready for these goals?  Just climbing? Bouldering? Any hangboard or system training?

Open to all ideas!
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Offline old_school

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2012, 03:12:33 PM »
To be climbing rock by my birthday in July following AC Joint reconstructive surgery at the end of February.
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Offline strandman

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2012, 04:13:59 PM »
Well tks- you have chosen 3 of the best routes in NE so have at it.

these are all primarily crack climbs so i would do lots of one  and two pitchers in the 5.10 range. and some harder..  and for DD , learn to move quick and set good belays quickly as well.

Grammy- you just want to miss prime bug  season
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Offline old_school

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2012, 05:23:51 PM »
Quote from: strandman on January 18, 2012, 04:13:59 PM
Grammy- you just want to miss prime bug  season

Shit John....was it THAT obvious???  ;D
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Offline sneoh

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2012, 11:58:50 PM »
Tks, are you looking to on-sight or flash these routes on lead or just lead them clean?  I know this may seem like a dumb and 'cheating' question but your answer can determine your approach to a certain extent.

Either way, I agree with John's advice; doing a lot of routes will increase your repertoire and make you a more diverse climber, above and beyond the goals you have set for yourself.

Of the four, I do not think bouldering or hang board will help you a lot towards achieving your stated goals but that is only a personal opinion.  YMMV.

Good luck (and train hard).
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Offline frik

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2012, 01:20:16 PM »
Also, stay away from rumney
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Offline eyebolter

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2012, 05:51:59 PM »
Huh?  Rumney helped me onsight 5.12 trad routes, avoid it at your peril!

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Offline sneoh

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Re: Training for 2012 Goals
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2012, 07:59:08 PM »
Well, Ward, maybe you should tell "the whole story".
My guess is you were redpointing 5.13/13+ sport routes at Rumney on a regular basis around the time you on-sighted 5.12 trad routes.  Not to mention you had done a lot of trad before putting in massive amount of time developing and sending hard routes at Rumney.

« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 08:01:17 PM by sneoh »
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