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Author Topic: the crampon conundrum  (Read 2466 times)

old_school

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #15 on: January 27, 2012, 04:52:54 PM »

I have two or three snargs in the basement. I would be lying if I said that I missed those days!!!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Admin Al

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2012, 05:08:25 PM »

went down to EMS (yikes) to check out the pair of Lynx that they have. they certainly do look nice, but paying the full boat ($225) for anything is really tough to swallow. not to mention, what's the price on replacement Lynx front points?
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Al Hospers
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David_G48

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2012, 05:30:34 PM »

I have sent an email to Petzl to double check on the information that I was told about picks for the older Nomics being unavailable and will post back when they respond to me. I would suspect that front points on the new Lynk will be relatively inexpensive for now and should cost less than $200 on sale.
Soon our numbers as climbers will dwindle leaving only the adventurous wealthy in the ranks.
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apbt1976

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2012, 07:05:49 PM »

I have sent an email to Petzl to double check on the information that I was told about picks for the older Nomics being unavailable and will post back when they respond to me. I would suspect that front points on the new Lynk will be relatively inexpensive for now and should cost less than $200 on sale.
Soon our numbers as climbers will dwindle leaving only the adventurous wealthy in the ranks.

Is it not that way already?!

Seems like you gotta have more than a few bucks laying around to me if you wanna climb ice. Sure you can use your stuff for years and years if take care of it or don't use it more than twice a week. Just gas and lodging would be seen as a real luxury to many especially these days. Getting all geared up if you have nothing id rather expensive as i just did it in the last few years.
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ELM

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2012, 07:38:50 PM »

We shall see but I think David is right. The new pick is the "ICE" pick not the mixed version the older nomic had. Plus the head is a different angle. I did foldle one locally and they felt a tad lighter thean the older and I did like the spikes at the base of the handle.
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Ed Matt
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DLottmann

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2012, 07:40:06 PM »

After initial gear, which can be gotten on the cheap through eBay, craigslist, etc, and splittiní gasí I know quite a few people who camp in their cars to get days on ice up here in the winter. It is NOT the rich manís sport it was in the earlier 1900ís. Many otherís split a $70 motel room 4 ways...
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DWT

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2012, 07:49:29 PM »

After initial gear, which can be gotten on the cheap through eBay, craigslist, etc, and splittiní gasí I know quite a few people who camp in their cars to get days on ice up here in the winter. It is NOT the rich manís sport it was in the earlier 1900ís. Many otherís split a $70 motel room 4 ways...
I agree with Dman.  I was real surprised how cheap the NC motels can be.  I paid 55 a night during icefest 2011 for two beds. 
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neiceclimber

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #22 on: January 28, 2012, 12:37:40 PM »

If starting from zero ice climbing sure is expensive. However, tools do not go bad, boots last, and crampons get resharpened. After the initial purchase, the sport (not including guides and Ouray) is free. Unlike skiing where I blow through a new set of skis and boots every 1 1/2 to 2 years, I've got 1st gen BD turbo express screws, 10yo Koflach's, a buddy is still rocking the footfangs I was goodwilled, my bags are 3-8yo, my puffy's 4and 6. All the above has been used three to four times a week, some years more, some less. My point being with a bit of filing, some patching, and just general care the only reason to really need to spend more money after you start is well to spend more money (excluding ropes and slings).
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Jeff

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #23 on: January 28, 2012, 10:59:11 PM »

Slink, I'll see your Snargs, which I have as well and raise you a couple of Nester "super screws"--chrome -molly drive-in, screw-out made pre 1972 (Ed Nester died in a rappelling accident in the Selkirks in late June or early July '72) ; They're in my "museum" of gear I won't use any more but also won't part with! ;)
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strandman

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #24 on: January 30, 2012, 09:22:19 AM »

Crampons ?----  Yaktrax for slidding around and some SMC 12 pointers for "leaf climbing"    ;)

i also have a Chacal and a terror for digging in the yard
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Admin Al

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #25 on: January 30, 2012, 10:42:06 AM »

found a single pair of Lynx at EMS and with the weekend sale and some help from DMan I grabbed them. took them out for a spin this morning at the North End. I had some difficulty getting the normal style toe bail installed so I left the rubber Fil-Flex setup on. altho they worked fine, they make me uncomfortable so I am going to get the wire ones installed before I do anything hard. regardless they worked at least as well as a new pair of M10's, tho not very differently IMO. I did the right pillar, the little chimney on Thresher and straight up the Thresher flow as a workout. it was all very nice. of course having new picks on my Ergo's AND the new crampons made it almost seem like I was cheating a bit.

29 degrees, a bit breezy and a bluebird day. perfect day for climbing, but now it's back to work...
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Al Hospers
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David_G48

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #26 on: January 30, 2012, 05:26:28 PM »

> The old Nomic Cascade picks were discontinued when we upgraded to the new U19 ICE and U19 DRY picks, which will fit the old Nomic tools. The new picks will work on the old tools, but some people have said it is a tight fit. The Petzl part number for the old Cascade pick is U21100 and with luck you may still find them somewhere online. Unfortunately, I do not know which dealers would have them in stock.
The above paragraph is the answer that I received from Petzl for replacement picks on the old Nomics. I wonder how tight the fit is and how difficult the replacement process will be. Good news is that the picks are still available and other than the $80 front point replacement for M10 crampons my faith has been repaired.
I stand corrected from my original post.

David
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slink

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #27 on: February 03, 2012, 08:44:30 AM »

Who needs crampons.Al you could have saved some money if you only knew :) 

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/basecamp_blog/wi5_in_down_booties/
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bailing is not failing!!!

Admin Al

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Re: the crampon conundrum
« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2012, 05:18:10 PM »

he don't need no stinkin' crampons...
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Al Hospers
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