Author Topic: nh routes  (Read 410 times)

Offline skibum

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nh routes
« on: March 29, 2004, 06:46:53 PM »
I was looking at the routes page here at neclimbs and had a few questions.
How do i know which routes are bolted for sport? and
What is the definition of standard rack?(what is included)

P.S. dont get rid of bolts on all routes b/c im not a big fan of spending a lot of money on buying pro, $50+ for one camming device when multiple are needed a lot of the time and a large selection of stoppers and hexex will go over $100

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2004, 07:28:52 PM »
 ??? $$$ is no reason to not learn trad climbing. Spurt climbing can be fun once in awhile but there are so many great climbs that don't need bolts and finding your way up a clif without a trail of bolts to lead you and keep you all safe and cozy is a really special experience. the trick is to buy one piece of gear at a time when you can mannage it. also good to have friends with at least a partial rack. Pool your gear together and go climbing 8)

Offline DWarriner

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2004, 05:49:25 AM »
Quote
I was looking at the routes page here at neclimbs and had a few questions.
How do i know which routes are bolted for sport? and
What is the definition of standard rack?(what is included)


P.S. dont get rid of bolts on all routes b/c im not a big fan of spending a lot of money on buying pro, $50+ for one camming device when multiple are needed a lot of the time and a large selection of stoppers and hexex will go over $100



Rt 93 to Exit 26.  Take Rt 25 west about 10 miles to Stinson Lake Road.  Right on Stinson Lake Rd, left on Buffalo Rd.  Go about a mile and park on the right.

Enjoy.

-David

« Last Edit: March 30, 2004, 05:50:01 AM by DWarriner »
There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

DLottmann

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2004, 03:28:21 PM »
It sounds like you are fairly new to the sport, so please find a mentor who knows what they are doing and can show you the ropes.  Also read Freedom of the Hills and/or How to Rock Climb, available at your nearest EMS.  These basic instruction books will help you figure out what a "standard rack" is.  Local guidebooks also mention what is "standard" for a particular area.

Offline skibum

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2004, 03:40:47 PM »
thanks for the info, im not exactly new to the sport but i am new to outdoor climbing w/o a guide( previously with imcs and other guids and my brother and me wanna sport and trad climb on our own and we need some gear)

my new question is what do u start with when your ready to build a trad rack what and how many should i buy first( how many cams and stoppers) and what sizes are needed most for the climbs in NH
how can i tell if a climb on the routes page is top roped

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2004, 03:50:10 PM »
A single set of stoppers  say BD or ABC from #3 to #12  and as many cams you can get your hands on from fingers to 3 inch, You may want to have a few small tri cams as well. You can double up on some of the  stoppers as yopu gain experience and kbow what you se the most. I have 2 #5 WC rocks and 2#8 BD stoppers that gives me 4 that are basicly the same size but i use them a bunch for finger cracks.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2004, 05:15:18 PM »
here's a link to an article that Rick Wilcox put together a while back that answers some of this:

http://www.neclimbs.com/other/Rope_Rack/Racks_Ropes.html

I climbed a lot in the beginning with no cams, just nuts and stoppers and tricams. it worked surprisingly well. sure I like slamming in a cam these days, but I'm an old man now. it goes with the teerritory.

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DLottmann

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Re: nh routes
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2004, 06:42:42 PM »
Quote

how can i tell if a climb on the routes page is top roped


After finding a route on the routes page that interests you, look it up in Webster's "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains".  You should have a guidebook to the area you are climbing in with you.  It will have infomation on what kind of gear you need and whether the climb can be top-roped.