Author Topic: Entire Route Collapses On Climber  (Read 4949 times)

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #45 on: February 20, 2012, 07:26:14 PM »
Do you use the X position on X rated climbs ???? I must have forgot that one.


In the example of eyebolder, he was downclimbing. Did he loose his feet on a snow pocket or did he was wash out by an avalanche higher in the cliff? I don't know. What I know it is that if he had two good ice axe in good position and climb down on a snow pocket, he won't fall down because his leg will have trigger the avalanche as his arms old him solid in ice.


No me lose feet, avalanche start higher up cliff.  Try X position with good ice axe but in snow, I say "X POSITION!  X POSITION!" but no good so avalanche sweeps me and snow over cliff, still in X position.  Tumble and tumble in X position then land on steep slope  and slide 300 feet then hit rocks and break ankle and ribs in X position.  Hike out in dark on broken ankle, no X position possible I am in so much pain. 

I hope this explains it to you.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 07:32:36 PM by eyebolter »

DLottmann

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #46 on: February 20, 2012, 07:31:31 PM »
Do you use the X position on X rated climbs ???? I must have forgot that one.
Did he loose his feet on a snow pocket or did he was wash out by an avalanche higher in the cliff? I don't know. What I know it is that if he had two good ice axe in good position and climb down on a snow pocket, he won't fall down because his leg will have trigger the avalanche as his arms old him solid in ice.

From his account it sounds like it may been a natural. Regardless, solid ice axe placements may help you with “sluffing”, but a true avalanche we wipe you out regardless of body-x. Two solid ice axe placements will do nothing in the face of an avalanche.

DLottmann

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #47 on: February 20, 2012, 07:33:13 PM »
thanks for clarifying eyebolter.  As always Champ needs to experience avalanche to train for what he assumes he knows all about...

jezus... it’s contagious...

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #48 on: February 20, 2012, 07:50:58 PM »
No me lose feet, avalanche start higher up cliff.  Try X position with good ice axe but in snow, I say "X POSITION!  X POSITION!" but no good so avalanche sweeps me and snow over cliff, still in X position.  Tumble and tumble in X position then land on steep slope  and slide 300 feet then hit rocks and break ankle and ribs in X position.  Hike out in dark on broken ankle, no X position possible I am in so much pain.  I hope this explains it to you.

It was a big one. It's happen ounce in a while. Body x position was not good in that one, sorry if I gave you the impression of a mistake. If I didn't ask the question, I won't have an answer.

Glad that you are still alive to write the story. Understand why you don't want to ice climb any more. There is always a risk   

Offline slink

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #49 on: February 20, 2012, 08:47:08 PM »
+1 Ward that was too funny
bailing is not failing!!!

Offline sneoh

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #50 on: February 20, 2012, 09:37:43 PM »
A masterpiece, Ward.  I had tears in my eyes from laughing so hard!
Of course I have known, for 20 years now, that you survived the ordeal but I have never heard the story told the way you just did.  Thanks, buddy.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 09:40:59 PM by sneoh »

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DWT

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #51 on: February 20, 2012, 10:01:22 PM »
Do you use the X position on X rated climbs ???? I must have forgot that one.


In the example of eyebolder, he was downclimbing. Did he loose his feet on a snow pocket or did he was wash out by an avalanche higher in the cliff? I don't know. What I know it is that if he had two good ice axe in good position and climb down on a snow pocket, he won't fall down because his leg will have trigger the avalanche as his arms old him solid in ice.


No me lose feet, avalanche start higher up cliff.  Try X position with good ice axe but in snow, I say "X POSITION!  X POSITION!" but no good so avalanche sweeps me and snow over cliff, still in X position.  Tumble and tumble in X position then land on steep slope  and slide 300 feet then hit rocks and break ankle and ribs in X position.  Hike out in dark on broken ankle, no X position possible I am in so much pain. 

I hope this explains it to you.

Good Stuff!

Offline strandman

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #52 on: February 21, 2012, 10:06:56 AM »
I'm getting a wing suit---- you fly in the x position

DGoguen

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Re: Entire Route Collapses On Climber
« Reply #53 on: February 21, 2012, 11:12:26 AM »
They're evil trained X animals
« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 05:42:44 PM by DGoguen »