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level of risk?

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lucky luke:
I red the post "entire route collapse" in "enjury section" and I know that some people don't even go to the cliff to see the ice, go to the cliff and bail or go to the cliff and climb. Those three person in any situation, will have the same behavior. Too much risk or not enought? Sure, we are going to say that we are in the middle.

But how do you estimate your level of risk? for myself, my limits is a major inury. I accept a broken arm or leg. When I make my estimation, if the danger is higher...I bail. what is your limit?

DWT:
I can't think of one time I thought to myself "I guess I'd be cool with a broken arm or leg today".  When I get to the base of a climb I'm always thinking "what is the safest way to climb this, where's the gear, and where's the next belay".  Everyone's climbed on without having all the answers, but a broken arm.  HUH?

apbt1976:

--- Quote from: DWT on February 14, 2012, 09:24:37 PM ---I can't think of one time I thought to myself "I guess I'd be cool with a broken arm or leg today".  When I get to the base of a climb I'm always thinking "what is the safest way to climb this, where's the gear, and where's the next belay".  Everyone's climbed on without having all the answers, but a broken arm.  HUH?

--- End quote ---

In Champ's defense i get what he is saying. I accept a injury within reason if something out of my control is to happen or in the case i majorly fuck up! I do not accept sure death or a brain injury.

I am not saying these are the rules i play by or what i think "AT ALL" but my guess is that this is maybe what he is saying? If so it makes perfect sense to me. Again not what i think when i look at a pitch of ice but?

My opinion is that just about any of the above scenario are a possible anytime we step on ice. Maybe more maybe less depending on conditions weather so forth and so on and a bunch of other variables that are often somewhat within our control but ultimately out of our control when it really comes down to it.

DMan:
LOL, “accept a broken arm or leg”.

You are funny.

IRL, every one has their own personal level of risk acceptance. Your’s sounds particularly high but who am I to judge.

To answer your question, we all sense “perceived risk” whether or not our perception is in line with actual risk. Then we act, whether it be to send the route, take the whipper, or go home and try later when we are stronger.

Personally, and simply put, if I think there’s a good chance I’ll get hurt I don’t do it... hero ice climbing included.

If you’re dying for a number let’s say if I calculate a 13.75% chance or higher of getting hurt I back off. Is that what you’re looking for?

lucky luke:

--- Quote from: DWT on February 14, 2012, 09:24:37 PM ---I'm always thinking "what is the safest way to climb this, where's the gear, and where's the next belay".  Everyone's climbed on without having all the answers, but a broken arm.  HUH?

--- End quote ---

Of course, I'm thinking "what is the safest way to climb...and what is the more fun. At cathedral, the safest is upper refuse, but black lung is more fun...and book of solenity (5.9+)... It is obvious that we don't climb to be injure.

You climb an ice route and, after the first pitch,  you have to take a decision to traverse hight or low to a column of 45 feet. If you traverse high, it is on rock and you can fall on your back in 25% of the case. The chance to go to the other side is 70%. If you traverse low, it is ice and you can broke your leg in a fall in 5% of the case. The chance to go to the other side is 50%. Are you going to bail or to try a move?   

It is more that kind of question that I like to discuss. I thing that I will try it at 50% with a lower chance to broke my leg. In any case, going above our last pro is taking a risk. In fact, I am not good at mixe climbing. Ha ha     

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