Author Topic: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope  (Read 3638 times)


robrox

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2012, 10:40:44 PM »
I have found that my Reverso works well for both rope-solo leads and the second, top-anchor ascent of the pitch after descending to clean it. It does tighten up and can be a bit of bother feeding out some slack, but I am glad to use it. It has caught me twice on rope-solo leads. I used to use a Gibbs ascender, called it "The Chopper" more than once....very glad its's gone.

Ascenders depend on pressure to stay clamped on a rope, rasps to stay put. Slapping ribbed lobes or toothy lobes onto a tensioned rope under serious mechanical advantage while a couple pitches up?  Not confidence inspiring!
« Last Edit: February 19, 2012, 10:42:26 PM by robrox »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2012, 07:10:00 AM »
Quote
...the second, top-anchor ascent of the pitch after descending to clean it...

IMO the Petzl Shunt is great for this use.
Al Hospers
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Offline perswig

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2012, 09:20:15 AM »
I've used to do a fair bit of rope-solo leading on a Soloist, but I'm with Robrox in that for fixed top-rope 'soloing', a belay device with an auto-lock setup option works fine. 

The Reverso's thin-edged frame worried me a bit with the potential to act as a knife if the event of a fall with some slack out to be dragged across, but I still occasionally use an ATC guide in this configuration.  It makes you stop and pull slack through, plus move your BU knot if you're using one - this is all good simulation of placing gear and clipping (if you're into that nonsense).

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

DLottmann

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2012, 09:02:15 PM »
RE: pulling slack through at stances with ATC Guides/Reversos....

While I have done this, it seems silly to me. A Self-belay on a fixed rope should be self-tending . If I want to simulate placing gear Iíll fix the rope from the ground, use a self-tending set up, and place gear. But on a fixed rope from above the system should not require pulling slack through...

Offline perswig

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2012, 10:26:28 PM »
(if you're into that nonsense)

...and therein lies the reason for this bit from the post above. 

Don't like all that friggin' (ah, a great NE term)?  Use a Soloist, Shunt, whathaveyou.

But sometimes you use what you've got.  Understand the principles and limitations and make it work.  Improvise, adapt, overcome - right, DMan?

Now if you're Grammy, or me, it's just another excuse to buy more gear.
As if we need an excuse...

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2012, 08:42:59 AM »
Now if you're Grammy, or me, it's just another excuse to buy more gear.
As if we need an excuse...

LOL...
Al Hospers
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meclimber

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2012, 12:44:00 PM »
I'm with al, shunt with a back pack tied at the bottom to help draw the rope through.

strandman

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2012, 07:07:57 PM »
CMI ascender and don't fall ?

WanderlustMD

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2012, 12:56:21 PM »
I've used two petzl jumars, one rigged with a chest harness to avoid a static fall. I'd like to get another grigri to mod for soloing, that seems like a better way overall.

meclimber

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Re: Self-belay for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2012, 06:12:43 AM »
gri gri is good to solo lead, un mod is fine.