Author Topic: 2012 Dreams ?  (Read 3056 times)

DWT

  • Guest
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #30 on: February 23, 2012, 10:08:03 PM »
Wavelength, Bombardment, Black Lung, PTE, and Pinnacle Buttress.  Birdsnest too.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2012, 10:19:26 PM by DWT »

Offline bennybrew

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2012, 05:21:12 PM »
Benny, Connecticut Crack is very do-able ! As if I don't have enough silly goals on my list, were I to get to Acadia this season, well, for a while I have dreamt of doing Connecticut, to Fingers on a Seascape, to the last pitch of Return to Forever. I led them all once on a trip a few years ago, but separately. Them's three fine pitches.

after i send ct cracks we'll see about the rest of that!  ;)

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 916
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2012, 05:51:02 PM »
(Tomcat, that's a savvy strategy to have in the toolbox for SB and other less-than-ideal anchor setups; I've used in on ice/mixed a couple times.  This is why it pays to climb with the old guard - lots of tricks.)

Derek, that is a fine and very doable list if your rock is at all at your ice level last season.  If you like Wavelength, do Pathfinder.  Haven't done BL or PTE, but you will -so- like Pinn Butt:  clusters of pins, hip belays and single point anchor opportunities, way old-school! 

Now I'm getting excited...
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline slink

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 502
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2012, 06:39:18 PM »
Red Rocks, the Gunks. Diagonal on Wallface.I would love to get through the third pitch of consolation prize ( it messes with my mind) More backwoods no guide book areas Sykes love to give directions and very little beta which makes fun climbing and no crowds. I am also in the hunt for loose lips.Ahh we can dream.
bailing is not failing!!!

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #34 on: February 24, 2012, 09:20:43 PM »
...does anyone other than Euros belay a leader direct off the anchor?...

There is absolutely ZERO reason to ever belay a leader directly off the anchor.

PERIOD.

Seriously, anyone reading this, do not try to belay a lead climber off the anchor.

Even the subtle movement of a belayer’s harness squeezing the belay helps dissipate fall forces. If you anchor is strong enough to belay directly off, it is strong enough for you to hang off and provide a more dynamic belay, even if using a Gri-Gri.

One last time... There is NO reason to belay a LEADER directly of an anchor.

None.

Zero.

We’re cool right?

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2110
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #35 on: February 24, 2012, 10:00:51 PM »
One last time... There is NO reason to belay a LEADER directly of an anchor.

None.

Zero.

We’re cool right?

Got it loud and clear, DMan.  I'm totally cool with it. :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradchick

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Conformity breeds mediocrity
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #36 on: February 25, 2012, 08:14:07 AM »
The Watermelon route and Lily on Mt. Hor
The Great Corner on Wheeler (c'mon over Dale!)
Check out North Bald Cap and Green's Cliff
Square up with Oscar the Grouch
The Petit Grepon in August

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5822
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2012, 06:52:23 PM »
If your talkin' the  grepon in RMNP, you better get in  line NOW.. it's way popular

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1823
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #38 on: February 26, 2012, 07:50:16 PM »
Tradchick, when you head to Green's, if you would like a tour, let me know and see if you can drag Ed out with you.

My dream is for my life situation to clear up a bit so I can get back up north regularly to climb with my friends and finish up some projects. Partly from having to stick closer to home, I have been getting back in to bouldering though. I would like to find some beautiful new hard line, say a V10, and get the FA before getting back to roped routes. I'll need the bouldering power for the cruxes. We have been finding all kinds of great new boulders in southern RI, but nothing quite that hard and good yet.
I threw myself at this crimpy arete and a high overhanging sloper one in the back so much today that I left them covered with blood, but it felt so good. perfect conditions :)
« Last Edit: February 26, 2012, 08:04:00 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. – John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline tradchick

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
  • Conformity breeds mediocrity
Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #39 on: February 27, 2012, 05:59:34 AM »
Mark - I'll take you up on that offer and will pm you after the black flies are gone. 

John - My buddy in Boulder is keeping my place in line.