Author Topic: 2012 Dreams ?  (Read 3349 times)

apbt1976

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2012, 09:24:27 AM »
Just climb rock once or twice a week. I only climb ice at this point so that would make me happy. Once up north and once local to me.

Also work more than i climb so i can take the winter off to climb ice again. Also wanna extend the winter the season with a pre and post season trip to someplace colder that has ice and snow before and after us.

So climbing moderation and more work and saving.

Offline OldEric

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2012, 09:41:35 AM »
Get all 4 limbs out of rehab at the same time.

apbt1976

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #17 on: February 23, 2012, 09:55:33 AM »
Get all 4 limbs out of rehab at the same time.

I can relate but i only have three i need to worry about. You got me by one limb ;)

strandman

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #18 on: February 23, 2012, 09:59:45 AM »
Shit- i was talking with Bob D'Antonio the other day about injuries. he had a heart attack while climbing ! Tough.  We are going to do a walking wounded group climb

apbt1976

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #19 on: February 23, 2012, 10:14:21 AM »
Shit- i was talking with Bob D'Antonio the other day about injuries. he had a heart attack while climbing ! Tough.  We are going to do a walking wounded group climb

That more than sucks. Sorry to hear about that......

A couple decades and i am sure it will be a stroke for me as i am addicted to stress!

strandman

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #20 on: February 23, 2012, 10:23:02 AM »
He's fine, really.  After thousands of f/a's , it will take more than a couple of blocked arteries.  8)

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #21 on: February 23, 2012, 10:34:57 AM »
Benny, Connecticut Crack is very do-able ! As if I don't have enough silly goals on my list, were I to get to Acadia this season, well, for a while I have dreamt of doing Connecticut, to Fingers on a Seascape, to the last pitch of Return to Forever. I led them all once on a trip a few years ago, but separately. Them's three fine pitches.

Come on folks, post up yer lists!
Tom Stryker

strandman

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2012, 10:44:30 AM »
A poor photo I know but the face visible is about1,200' , starting at 13K and has ONE route

Offline perswig

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2012, 11:21:46 AM »
I recall belaying Andrei on P2 of SB, me looking at those kinda bunk pins and then that poor excuse of a flaring crack for gear at the beginning and thinking, "This is not gonna end well...". 

I did a bogus job following that pitch; rematch would be nice.  Maybe this year.
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2012, 12:30:31 PM »
Hi Dale !! I had to do a rematch on that as well, we were absolutely freaking about bugs that day. A real man like Strand would probably do it in one pitch, since the gear is diff for the upper than the lower, but I haven't the guns for it. Here's a little tip though.

I don't usually power point stuff as I belay olde school off the harness and I am on doubles, so make an exception and PP the anchor. Clip it as a piece, and move up into the finger crack until you can set a good piece. Henry tells me he gets good stoppers all the way, but I am happy with small cams. Once you have a good piece or two for one of your ropes, climb back to the belay, bring yer rope gun up, pull the line through, and voila! It will end well. It's not a bad trick on ice when the next pitch is brisk right off, but of course your partner has to feel ok about the proceedure too.

The climbing is really only 10b, getting the gear in moves it to 10d. Some shweet rock up there. The first pitch you just have embrace....lol...

Edit to add: duh, if you are swapping leads you don't even have to pull the line through.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2012, 12:32:10 PM by The other tomcat »
Tom Stryker

DWT

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2012, 08:15:40 PM »
I hope this isn't a dumb question?  What is power point?  What are the reasons you'd use it?  What are the advantages and disadvantages?  Are there any safety concerns to be mindful of?

Derek

sneoh

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #26 on: February 23, 2012, 08:57:07 PM »
I hope this isn't a dumb question?  What is power point?  What are the reasons you'd use it? 
I am guessing to avoid a possible FF 2. fall on to the P1 anchors?
I could be totally wrong however .....

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #27 on: February 23, 2012, 09:02:48 PM »
There are people better qualified to answer than me but, here goes. Power point, to me, is what you get when you equalize an anchor with a cordelette. Pretty much SOP today for people who belay their seconds off the anchor. I'm way olde school, so always belay my partner off my harness. I also climb mostly on doubles, and in my opinion I can do a better job equalizing and providing redundancy with them, so don't carry a lette.

Now that you are drawn into the discussion you are morally obligated to divulge your 2012 dreams. Just climbing, not whirled peas.

Yes soon, the plan is to avoid FF2. I hate those....
Tom Stryker

sneoh

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #28 on: February 23, 2012, 09:30:15 PM »
Now that you are drawn into the discussion you are morally obligated to divulge your 2012 dreams. Just climbing, not whirled peas.
What a play on words!  I missed that on the 1st read! :)

Sorry for going off on a tangent here with something I have wondered about -
what would be safer a) catch a FF2 fall directly onto an equalized anchor (belaying directly off the anchor), or b) belayer catching the same fall directly 'off his/her harness' with he/her tied to the anchor with a bight of rope / a cordelette?  Assume belayer is able to catch the fall in both scenarios and do not get slammed with b).
I am thinking b) is marginally safer unless the anchor is 100% bomb proof.  Correct?  Thoughts?


Offline The other tomcat

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Re: 2012 Dreams ?
« Reply #29 on: February 23, 2012, 09:49:09 PM »
Soon, I think you know every bit as much as I. Basically, does anyone other than Euros belay a leader direct off the anchor?

This gets complicated to discuss, I just tried it the other night. The underlying issue is the type of belay device. If you are using a tube type, like atc or whatever, a lot depends on whether, when your leader falls past you, you lose the "bend back". So imagine yer yanked around backwards, is your hand still bent around the device enough to arrest? Gloves become a great idea.

You must now post your 2012 dreams too, you have been assimilated...lol

Tom Stryker