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Author Topic: Lost Ledge?  (Read 5059 times)

donaldalbro

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Lost Ledge?
« on: March 06, 2012, 05:12:09 AM »

Hi,
I am a fairly new to leading and am looking for a non-Rumney place to climb with moderate routes. Are the bolts at Lost Ledge there/in good shape? I looked at a description of one route and it said that there were only two bolts. Are there places to put gear between these or is that it?

Thanks for any info that you might have,
Donny
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Admin Al

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2012, 06:49:35 AM »

there are lots of climbs at Lost Ledge with good bolts. the climbing is all slab climbing, not vertical like Rumney tho. the Carpet Slab on the right is very moderate/easy stuff, the main slab on left has harder ones.

you should also checkout Found Ledge. it has a slab area with a bunch of nice well-protected bolted climbs from 5.7-5.9 and some much harder vertical crack climbs that you can lead or easily TR.

details are in the Routes section here on the site.
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ELM

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2012, 07:50:48 AM »

Bring a brush for "Weak Nuts" and lots of #2 cams.
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DLottmann

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2012, 11:24:23 AM »

Geriatric wall at Humphreys Ledge   see details in route section
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old_school

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2012, 09:48:01 AM »

+1 Geriatric....but don't forget to bring some gear.
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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2012, 10:49:52 AM »

+1 Geriatric....but don't forget to bring some gear.

it's definitely NOT a sport climbing area! [wry grin]
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M_Sprague

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2012, 01:50:38 PM »

Where would you be traveling from, Don? I haven't been there yet, but it looks like the New Durham area has a lot of routes in the moderate range, with some being sport, others mixed. It might be worth checking out.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-durham-area/107145595
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DLottmann

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2012, 09:51:09 PM »

+1 Geriatric....but don't forget to bring some gear.

it's definitely NOT a sport climbing area! [wry grin]

Tree Keys, High Step, and Yellow Jacket are all well protected “sport” moderate bolted lines.

Tree Keys actually has bolts next to great natural gear (2nd to last bolt). High Steppin’ has extremely closely spaced bolts at the crux, and a bolt protecting a 5.2 move down low, then run-out 5.5ish higher up... not my favorite set up for a route... Yellow Jacket is well done 5.7.

With the slabi 5.4 climb on the right side, and Wanderlust and other somewhat moderate routes in the area, that whole area of Humprhey’s is definitely a good  alternative to Rumney (better than Lost ledge IMO as Lost Ledge is very low angle slab climbing for the most part).
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terminusnout

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Re: Lost Ledge?
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2012, 01:11:53 AM »

+1 for Mark's comment, the Slab Wall at Devil's Den in New Durham is what you are looking for, most of the routes are completely bolted with the occasional piece here and there in bomber, easy to place and inspect, horizontal cracks. The majority of the routes check in between 5.7-5.9 but there is an excellent 5.10 called "Stolen" near the right end of the crag that is perfect for someone working into the grade.  Before heading up there I would check with the New Durham ATV Club and see if the gates are unlocked, if not its a decent but flat hike in.
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