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Author Topic: Band M Ledge  (Read 5149 times)

erikeisele

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #60 on: March 13, 2012, 10:14:26 AM »

I just got off the phone with the property owner, who confirmed Band M is closed. The owner was sympathetic, telling me several times that he is a hiker and a mountain climber, but his insurance company is insisting he secure the property and restrict climbing. He did not mention an climbing accident, but he said there was a theft from his property (in no way connected with climbers). His insurance company came in afterwards and said he has to lock the place down.

We only had a short conversation, but we arranged to talk again later this week. For now please stay off the cliff. I'm in the process of touching base with local climbing shops, media outlets and websites to get the word out. If you could please spread the word I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
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perswig

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #61 on: March 13, 2012, 12:16:38 PM »

Thanks, Erik, for taking on the job of trying to restore access. 
Routes there are above my pay grade, but clearly many folks have enjoyed their time there.

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

meclimber

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #62 on: March 13, 2012, 12:28:59 PM »

Dale, hardly..

Erik, we appreciate the work.  Band M is the early season cliff.  The amount of rain days I have spent under the left side is sad.  It would be a shame to lose it.  Really classic routes there.
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Jon Howard

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #63 on: March 13, 2012, 01:54:38 PM »

Wow...definitely not the news I was expecting to hear. I echo the thanks Erik for the work you are doing to help with this matter. SOme of my earliest memories of climbing were at that little crag. A name Stevie Damboise comes to mind...back in the early to mid 80's. I hope this matter can be resolved and the ban lifted before too long. I would hate to lose this crag as well.

~g
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #64 on: March 13, 2012, 02:04:35 PM »

This sucks- i put a notice over at MP.

I too have fond memories climbing bitd with TC and Base and Mallery it was crazy not knowing anything about the crag.. We just kind of wandered around looking for good stuff.
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Admin Al

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #65 on: March 13, 2012, 04:27:51 PM »

I posted a sticky here and am putting a notice on the FaceBook page.
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z.st.jules

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #66 on: March 13, 2012, 07:47:43 PM »

hmm... shouldn't have said anything... hahaha
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WanderlustMD

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #67 on: March 13, 2012, 10:46:39 PM »

This really sucks.
Thanks for the help Eric, keep us posted.
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terminusnout

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #68 on: March 14, 2012, 12:21:17 AM »

This situation is a horrid shame i had always worried about access to Band M. I Love this cliff, I remember going out to Band M for the first time in late February to rope solo next to each other on the side by side aid routes "General Hospital" and "Two Bit Hooker". While on the approach we both realized we were sweating like pigs hiking up and the combination of 40 degree air temps, full sun, and the cliffs aspect had us wondering why we were slogging up aid gear and two ropes when we had a very strong possibility of free climbing. We headed back to the truck and found a pair of John's old rock shoes (Luckily we are the same size) and a "IME basement special" chalk bag, reorganized and headed back towards the cliff. We were pleasantly surprised to find a number of routes dry and a whole section on the left side of the cliff that housed a mini sport(y) crag that stayed dry in a light rain. After that first day I fell in love with the cliff, each corner is a classic or a new route waiting for an ascent.  Some of My favorites inclue "If Dogs Run Free", "Bandit", "Machina et Duex", "Bedo Bedo", and "The Steps" the latter is an very overlooked and under appreciated multi-pitch outing running from the base up some of the cliff's most appealing geometry. I have to commend Erik Eisley for his generous and timely effort in getting the Access Fund involved as they are one of our best resources and chances for saving the cliff.   

.....Anyone Ever "Blaze Fire" in the "stone house" the base of the cliff? If you have you know the potential for bouldering at Band M too
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meclimber

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #69 on: March 14, 2012, 06:28:08 AM »

ha, ice gear and aid gear and ended up in our base layers rock climbing.  good memories.  bees on bedo bedo, getting worked on understated , three wogs (still the hardest 10a, anywhere), trying not to die on standard, thinking we had an awesome new route only to discover some old shit bolt!  Great cliff, great times.
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Jon Howard

strandman

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #70 on: March 14, 2012, 12:16:58 PM »

MUCH bouldering potential for sure and the smoke helps keep bugs away.

I still say Dogs is a nh top 10 climb for sure.
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lucky luke

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #71 on: March 14, 2012, 01:26:44 PM »

Just be aware They start like that in Quebec. One cliff close and after that they want to close them all. When a guy said all the time avalanche is dangerous, don't go in the mountain without our avalanche post, those guy are stupid because they went in the mountain and was trap... That kind of comportment bypass all generation of climber who told that climbing is dangerous and ask for the conservation of "old style". As accident happen more frequently (two or three quebec climber this year) because the new generation don't stay enought time in the mountain and don't have time to think at where the danger are (they spend there time in gym and crag and go to the dangerous cliff as a trip of one or two days). In fact, the accident happen more often because people don't have a deep understanding of the safety technique (munky hang, barn door vs flag, etc), but they learn superficially how a figure eight work(oups it is foreign language for some people), and never test why it is better or worse than other technique. They just take the advice of a man who told you that it is the good technique. 
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sneoh

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #72 on: March 14, 2012, 01:46:41 PM »

Just be aware They start like that in Quebec. One cliff close and after that they want to close them all.
So, Champ, are you saying eroding access is also a problem in Quebec?
If so, is there a move taken by the climbing community to counter that?
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #73 on: March 14, 2012, 05:44:04 PM »

Quebec has had access issues for years.. band m is a bit different. It's privatelyowned and there have been no problems, a lot of Quebec is state owned ( yes as well as private).

I REALLy don't understand Champs point about sport/trad and a learning curve here.. I guess i never will.
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sneoh

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Re: Band M Ledge
« Reply #74 on: March 14, 2012, 08:13:09 PM »

I REALLy don't understand Champs point about sport/trad and a learning curve here.. I guess i never will.
Neither do I .... but I have learnt not to ask for 'clarification'! :)
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ
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