This situation is a horrid shame i had always worried about access to Band M. I Love this cliff, I remember going out to Band M for the first time in late February to rope solo next to each other on the side by side aid routes "General Hospital" and "Two Bit Hooker". While on the approach we both realized we were sweating like pigs hiking up and the combination of 40 degree air temps, full sun, and the cliffs aspect had us wondering why we were slogging up aid gear and two ropes when we had a very strong possibility of free climbing. We headed back to the truck and found a pair of John's old rock shoes (Luckily we are the same size) and a "IME basement special" chalk bag, reorganized and headed back towards the cliff. We were pleasantly surprised to find a number of routes dry and a whole section on the left side of the cliff that housed a mini sport(y) crag that stayed dry in a light rain. After that first day I fell in love with the cliff, each corner is a classic or a new route waiting for an ascent. Some of My favorites inclue "If Dogs Run Free", "Bandit", "Machina et Duex", "Bedo Bedo", and "The Steps" the latter is an very overlooked and under appreciated multi-pitch outing running from the base up some of the cliff's most appealing geometry. I have to commend Erik Eisley for his generous and timely effort in getting the Access Fund involved as they are one of our best resources and chances for saving the cliff.
.....Anyone Ever "Blaze Fire" in the "stone house" the base of the cliff? If you have you know the potential for bouldering at Band M too