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Author Topic: Route between Lost ITS and A Bit Short  (Read 120 times)

markvnh

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Route between Lost ITS and A Bit Short
« on: August 28, 2014, 07:55:08 PM »

I vaguely remember reading somewhere about a route between Lost in the Sun and A Bit Short - but couldn't find it now.

Climbed Lost today and definitely did the second pitch of this route. Actually the first pitch we climbed to the higher of the two bolt belays and then the slab that was bolted - and quite nice. But it certainly wasn't Lost.

We did finish on all the Lost pitches though. However there is a line of bolts that still trends towards the center of the slab.

Anyone know what this is and what it's rated? Before I get myself in trouble.

Thanks everyone in advance for any beta!
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snowleopard

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Re: Route between Lost ITS and A Bit Short
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2014, 11:43:31 PM »

mark you are correct.  The route takes pretty much the most direct line up the middle from the toe of the slab.
8 pitches if I recall.  The 2nd pitch you did is the crux (5.6ish friction moves at its end to get to the belay).
All double bolt anchors except last 2 pitches belay in trees.
Kurt Winkler and Peter Gamache did it without the bolts around 2006 (added the bolts after)
They still have not gotten around to writing it up. 

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markvnh

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Re: Route between Lost ITS and A Bit Short
« Reply #2 on: Yesterday at 06:36:16 AM »

SL,

Thanks for the quick response and beta! It's nice to know that we've already done the crux. And your description of the last moves on that second pitch to the belay are spot on. Felt 5.6 spicy - since it was a bit far from the last bolt!

And I will assume the rest of the route climbs similarly as Lost from a gear perspective. I'll bet it's a pretty nice route the whole way and great addition to the routes in the area. And probably doesn't see much traffic since I couldn't find any info.

When I get to doing it I will be sure to post some info.

Thanks again SL!

Mark


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