Author Topic: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)  (Read 399 times)

Offline Nick Grant

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TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« on: January 19, 2015, 10:52:34 PM »
Here's some great new footage of Tommy Caldwell sending the infamous Pitch 15.  I love the thin stuff (Ladder Line at the Quarries, Flying Hawaiian at Rumney), but I can't really imagine doing anything moderately hard (let alone this killer pitch) sans index finger on my left hand.  Tommy rocks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLd_c4CjG44

Offline SA

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2015, 08:07:27 AM »
That was pretty amazing. He is sooooooooo smooth. I chatted with him in the Valley, 2 years ago, and he is a really nice guy, and very humble.

Offline markvnh

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2015, 09:18:13 AM »
Yeah, pretty amazing! I wonder where KJ was having all the problems on that pitch? It was also interesting to hear what was going on in the valley floor as background noise.

Offline strandman

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2015, 09:31:13 AM »
Well after 7 years , he should be smooth  ;D

I have seen some of Jorgenson's "routes" in the Buttermilks..suprised he used a rope on the Dawn

Flex Luther is still unrepeated,,Caldwell's 15A from quite  few years ago now.

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2015, 10:15:15 PM »
wow,

my fingers (and toes) ache just looking at this…

awesome achievement by these guys.

couple of things came to mind as i was watching:

-is there any video of Jorgenson doing that crux?  be nice to see his success after so many tries.

-seems like that pitch has quite a few bolts. (don't get me wrong: i'm not criticizing, but i know that some might think it "bat-shit crazy…") 

-although it was hard to see from the video, a lot of "bigger" holds looked more than a little "enhanced." (again, i'm sure they climbed what they found, but what i saw sure looks hammered on.)

ed e
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline strandman

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2015, 09:37:02 AM »
I doubt any enhancing of holds..  when we did Clean Sweep, a mini hod on the crux could be seen from the road !  really  so much chalk...that part of El Cap is a sky hook mecca,, that;s what make it free climbable at high grades

I'm pretty sure also that they didn't add any bolts to existing routes like mescalito  just belays. I saw a vid a couple years ago of Tommy whipping 50+' off a 14B pitch..at night

Offline pappy

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2015, 01:09:55 PM »
wow,

my fingers (and toes) ache just looking at this…

awesome achievement by these guys.

couple of things came to mind as i was watching:

-is there any video of Jorgenson doing that crux?  be nice to see his success after so many tries.

-seems like that pitch has quite a few bolts. (don't get me wrong: i'm not criticizing, but i know that some might think it "bat-shit crazy…") 

-although it was hard to see from the video, a lot of "bigger" holds looked more than a little "enhanced." (again, i'm sure they climbed what they found, but what i saw sure looks hammered on.)

ed e

yeah, there is one shot at least that when I looked at it I thought, 'oh shit, that looks, ummm, enhanced.' That said, I didn't think it was 'over bolted' at all, certainly not compared to a lot of the crap I've seen when you can clip the next bolt from the last one. I notoriously hate falling (there are no positive outcomes) and will scream like a baby--and 2k' off the deck more like a banshee, pretty much why I could never free the crux on Traditions--so I can only say kudos.

The real lesson is that when you have that kind of foot work--and especially the confidence in your footwork--you don't need no stinkin' finger.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline eyebolter

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2015, 07:11:15 PM »
halfway up El Cap you might hope you wouldn't have a bunch of dorks yelling "Come on! Come on!"

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2015, 07:20:00 PM »
I think this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_lZc7nATT4 of Kevin working the pitch gives a much better sense of the holds and the degree of difficulty. Watching the one of Caldwell leading pitch 15, I was actually thinking that doesn't look THAT hard.. I know it is, but... The holds look bigger in the TC video than many routes in NH at a much easier grade and similar steepness, like on Attack of the White Owl at Owls.

I put the appearance of the holds down to the nature of the flakes and that people have probably been affecting them by hooking all over them for years. It looks like the rock has lots of scars of all sizes from flakes exfoliating.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 07:27:03 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2015, 07:22:11 PM »
halfway up El Cap you might hope you wouldn't have a bunch of dorks yelling "Come on! Come on!"

Yeah, I don't like being screamed at generally, especially while doing very thin technical moves, and all the road noise would drive me crazy. So much for "Wilderness". It sounded like he was on the side of a building in NY. The wall is sure beautiful though.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 07:24:29 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline strandman

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2015, 12:25:00 PM »
I wasn't theer but, i really doubt that someone who spends 7 years on a route of a lifetime ,under constant video watch would chip anything.  That was Jardine on the Nose in 1980

Caldwell has had some of his routes chipped before by repeaters and he wasn't to fond of it.

Offline pappy

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2015, 03:12:14 PM »
I wasn't theer but, i really doubt that someone who spends 7 years on a route of a lifetime ,under constant video watch would chip anything.  That was Jardine on the Nose in 1980

Caldwell has had some of his routes chipped before by repeaters and he wasn't to fond of it.

I don''t think these guys enhanced, I was more under the impression that maybe someone else on another attempt (similar to Jardine, who made the free Nose possible for people who didn't chip) might have. On reflection I think that what I was looking at may very well have been from a recently exfoliated flake, perhaps encouraged by hooking. Which can leave a nice dime (or less) edge, not that I could use it. But then I think of Bridwell driving pins to 'accelerate' the 'natural' propagation of pin scars to make a free ascent possible and I wonder.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline strandman

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Re: TC on Pitch 15 (wicked thin)
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2015, 05:01:14 PM »
Well ridwell chipped footholds on Wheat Thin because he was wearing RR's and placed bolts because he didn't have cams ? Mescalito is a pretty popular aid climb, a ripped flake could easily have happened