Author Topic: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?  (Read 1223 times)

Offline tradchick

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #90 on: Yesterday at 06:44:02 PM »
Grammy if you're going I will definitely be there.  We should go climbing first!  :)

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #91 on: Yesterday at 09:26:58 PM »
Ed you need to go fancy beer drinking with me sometime. I'll hook you up with all kinds of craft beers with no fruit, oatmeal, or espresso -- and no vanilla faaaaken beans!

JB,
That does sound like an good time.  Hopefully, we'll meet up one of these days.

You have a good sense of humor, I appreciate that…

Just today, I saw (and I'm not making this $h!t up…) "Banana Bread Beer," and "GingerBread Head" (their motto: "A Cookie in Every Bottle.") 

ed e
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #92 on: Yesterday at 09:43:13 PM »
If a route has been done a certain way for years, then it stays that way (excepting gear upgrades)

Now,,about those beers.. :-*

does your "then it stays that way…" statement apply equally to all routes??

if so, how about Maestri's "Compressor Route??"

I'm no expert, it sounds like a route that was "done a certain way for years.."

Shouldn't it then, (by your standards) "stay that way…"??

Sounds to me like a "if it's good for the goose, it's good for the gander" sort of thing.

ed e



pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #93 on: Today at 08:34:55 AM »
RE the bolting issue...

FWIW I have personally replaced a ton of bolts on Cathedral, Whitehorse and in many other areas over the years. My method always was:

1) to do my best to pull the old bolt if possible
2) if not then chop it, pound it in and cover it with epoxy and rock dust
3) never place the new bolt more than 1 palm width away from the original placement

FWIW I was taught how to do this by local guide Kurt Winkler. I know I'm opening myself up to criticism here but for example I did Rapid Transit, Children's Crusade, Lady Slipper and a number of climbs at Lost and Found Ledges.

I have thought about replacing the Lost Souls bolts and if I have the time and energy I will do it this summer. The climb is one of my all time faves and IMO deserves it.

FWIW If you are interested in replacing bolts on existing routes the local MRS will usually provide the bolts. Speak with Rick at IME about it. If you are a relatively unknown quantity, they will likely want you to be accompanied by a local, at least the first time.

Cheers
Al Hospers
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Offline old_school

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #94 on: Today at 09:47:07 AM »
We used to drink Sierra at the Cathedral road,,,um,,that stopped. :police:

Only savages drink cheap beer....if this thread goes to 5.11..will it be whiskey ?

Oban and Talisker...may be more like 12b??
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline old_school

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #95 on: Today at 09:48:23 AM »
Grammy if you're going I will definitely be there.  We should go climbing first!  :)

It's a date!!  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline old_school

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #96 on: Today at 09:59:58 AM »
RE the bolting issue...
FWIW If you are interested in replacing bolts on existing routes the local MRS will usually provide the bolts. Speak with Rick at IME about it. If you are a relatively unknown quantity, they will likely want you to be accompanied by a local, at least the first time.

Cheers

WE have done a few too, AP Treat, Worm Drive, etc...all bolts literally 4-5" from the original bolts. MRS donated the bolts and hangers for these projects.
« Last Edit: Today at 10:45:23 AM by old_school »
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #97 on: Today at 10:57:54 AM »
If a route has been done a certain way for years, then it stays that way (excepting gear upgrades)

Now,,about those beers.. :-*

does your "then it stays that way…" statement apply equally to all routes??

if so, how about Maestri's "Compressor Route??"

I'm no expert, it sounds like a route that was "done a certain way for years.."

Shouldn't it then, (by your standards) "stay that way…"??

Sounds to me like a "if it's good for the goose, it's good for the gander" sort of thing.

ed e

Maestri doesn't count because he prolly drank wine..not beer

At a re bolting weekend a few years  ago, i did a hand drilling thing,,,,,scared the shit out of people.

Offline old_school

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Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Reply #98 on: Today at 11:20:37 AM »
At a re bolting weekend a few years  ago, i did a hand drilling thing,,,,,scared the shit out of people.

Ahahaha... ;D
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."