Author Topic: WTF!?  (Read 1222 times)

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #75 on: Today at 08:01:41 AM »
The few times I have climbed with Base he has been nothing short of laid back and fun and encouraging. Hell, a couple of years back I bumped into him eating breakfast in Manchester and he shot the shit with me and answered a bunch of route questions I had. Such a wealth of knowledge!

And just to weigh in on the safety side of things...
LL, A lot of people are very aware of safety. I can't quote to anyone from freedom of the hills,but I always double check my partners, stop giving my partners crap when things get serious on the lead, hell, I took AIARE level one and WFR (not just WFA). Why? Because I like to be safe. I like my friends to be safe. When something does go wrong (because shit does happen) I want to be able to do my best to help out.

Luke, realize what this thread is about. Your conduct was shitty regarding the Gunks accident. Just apologize and move on. Admiting fault when necessary can be quite liberating. After all we are only human.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline lucky luke

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #76 on: Today at 08:44:12 AM »
They happened to be heading over to climb Ventelator. NOT WANTING TO DO THE SLIGHTLY RUN OUT 5.6 Pitch, I encouraged him to try that new 3 bolt 9+/10a slab face that brings you to the ledge both routes start off of. Guess who didn't send clean?

You make no difference between being safe and sending a route. When I had my shoulder dislocation, I climbed 5.8 and not over for a while. If I decide not to do the slightly run out and I try a 5.9 instead...that prove that the bolt was too close together and it is a top rope. Easier than 5.6, it is a top rope and my shoulder have been safe. If I climbed ventilator...I think that i don't want to do the 5.6 because it is too easy and I try the other variation. The run out in ventilator are harder than in bombardment.

Yes I try to be safe and, as I climbed with Base, he is the leader (Base rules as he like to say). Every body who knows Base know that he is very safe and smart to protect pitches. I learned a lot with him and I am still learning far from the competition of the : "Guess who" stupidity. I climbed for fun, I climb because I am not sure to make it and I CLIMBED SAFE. I remember one they walking at the bottom of the cliff, Base told me: look that route, I won't do that because it is dangerous, see that place you have to be care full there is a pendulum....and the far next day telling me; I took a twenty fall at the same spot because my feet slip, I make the move and I place three pro before I made a mistake and felt.

After my shoulder dislocation, I climb wedge: easy 5.6 with long run out. I was at the end of the second or third pitch, a long run out going strait up to the bolt anchor. My leg was shaking as I look down below me because my head remember how pain full my dislocation was (eight week after the accident) and the other part of my brain was saying: it is a slab, you climb on your feet...you still have the skill. But the mind is very strong and I barely made it to the bolt.

It has been a trad accident. A lot of you will understand that climbing is stronger than the pain. A lot of trad climber climb with injury.

     

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #77 on: Today at 09:32:56 AM »
Lucky, I'll leave you with this. The routes share the same first pitch. You voiced concern about the run out. You opted to take the sport route. I was pointing out that you didn't send it not for the fact that you didn't, but that you DID NOT lower off and try to hit it ground up again. You sir, are a fucking poser. A wannabe. A sporto hack like the rest of us.

Cordially yours,

Jeremy.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline sneoh

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #78 on: Today at 09:37:49 AM »
My leg was shaking as I look down below me because my head remember how pain full my dislocation was (eight week after the accident) and the other part of my brain was saying: it is a slab, you climb on your feet...you still have the skill. But the mind is very strong and I barely made it to the bolt.

It has been a trad accident. A lot of you will understand that climbing is stronger than the pain. A lot of trad climber climb with injury.

For someone who claims to place safety above everything and claims to have good technique and know how to "fall right", you sure have a lot of climbing related injuries like dislocation and fractures.
Maybe, just maybe, the evidence suggests you are otherwise.   Think about it.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #79 on: Today at 10:51:30 AM »
For someone who claims to place safety above everything and claims to have good technique and know how to "fall right", you sure have a lot of climbing related injuries like dislocation and fractures.

For you (sneoh and xcrag, doing a mistake, it is a weakness. To be prepare for that, you take courses. If you have your aires to climb on rocc...you are bolt. Nobody can say that you are weak.

For me, doing is a mistake is a possibility. If I climb a route an I can't do the move, I will aid it. I won't say that I am able to lead it. It will be a defeat. My best partner...the cliff... own pretty much victory those last years. and it still gave me the chance to reach the top.

N.B. I led the pitch in my first free ascent long time ago, I repeat some route many times...but WTF for you
« Last Edit: Today at 10:54:07 AM by lucky luke »

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #80 on: Today at 11:10:01 AM »
Hey buddy,
 AIARE is an Avy class. (Emphasizing on safety)
Falling isn't a weakness it is learning.
Anyone who has climbed with me knows I am quite humble. (Notice how in my prior post I didn't mention if I climbed the route clean or not)

You don't know me
You never will

I'd like to thank the rest of you for allowing me to sit at your table. There appears to be enough bait for all of us to feast on.

-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline sneoh

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #81 on: Today at 11:24:46 AM »
Let's face it, everyone makes mistakes. 
I will never claim that I never make a mistake.  Luck, friends, and everything else have so far kept me off the deck with no broken bones. 
But I am not the one telling others they are unsafe because they have 'sport' or 'bouldering' ethics.  You are!
As the saying goes something like this, let those without sin cast the first stone.
So you are one of those who tell people "do what I say and not (follow) what I do".  Like don't hit anything and suffer fractures and dislocation!

Oh, I have travelled enough and climbed with enough different climbers of all stripes to know I am weak by comparison.  Even whipped by 11/12 year old girls!
« Last Edit: Today at 11:37:22 AM by sneoh »

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #82 on: Today at 11:51:46 AM »
But I am not the one telling others they are unsafe because they have 'sport' or 'bouldering' ethics.  You are!

I am telling that a hiker who go to close from a cliff, doing climbing without knowledge/equipment is unsafe

I also say that some one with a sport ethic, falling on bolt number of times doesn't make a mistake: it is the ethic to do that

As a hiker going in trad cliff, a sport climber going in trad cliff don't have the same attitude in relation to "don't fall" that some one with a strong ethic in trad. In sport you learn to trust the solidity of the equipment and in trad you learn is weakness. You learn to protect your weakness instead of learningg to "climb hard"

but it is a choice and every body have not the same level of priority.

I am sure that the young women was as bold as a bolt., a quality in sport climbing.

Offline kenreville

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Re: WTF!?
« Reply #83 on: Today at 12:23:01 PM »
As was suggested, the stand-up, right thing to do, is to apologize for your insensitive and ignorant comments and move on.

I won't hold my breath.