Author Topic: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...  (Read 1519 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« on: March 20, 2012, 11:45:33 AM »
time to get out the rock shoes and rack folks.
Al Hospers
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Offline apbt1976

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2012, 11:58:30 AM »
That it is "sigh"....

My pack and gear has been sitting by the front door ready to go since the last time i got out "Maddison Gulf two weeks ago i think"? Sad to say it never got out for one last go up Huntington. Not for a lack of desire but rather due to all the falling ice reports and lack of a partner willing to slog in to find nothing but crap.

I gotta clean the house tomorrow and i think its about time i clean and neatly put away the winter gear. I hate to do it but it is time :(

I really hope i come to love climbing rock as much as i do ice as i just love the sight of that pack sitting by the door every time i take the dogs out to piss or leave the house for some reason.






DWT

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2012, 06:48:43 PM »
ABPT1976,

Well, what's the verdict?  Did you enjoy rock climbing?  Pawtuckaway today?

Cheers

Derek

Offline apbt1976

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2012, 10:16:44 PM »
ABPT1976,

Well, what's the verdict?  Did you enjoy rock climbing?  Pawtuckaway today?

Cheers

Derek

I did man, now i have a year round addiction to feed. Thanks so much for the help, the directions to the lot were perfect. I wish i could say the same for Google maps as they had me head east on 101 as apposed to west. I knew i was going the wrong way but did it anyway till it was blatantly clear "i hit ocean" that i was indeed going the wrong way. Other than that the day went off without a hitch.


We started with on the lower slabs with whatever that "tree" climb is then did the line just to it's right. We then headed up to the Upper Cliff area and did The Roof then the 5-9 line just to the right of the Roof then that easy crack climb between two trees to the right of the Horn. All in all it was a great day, we did plenty of talking as it was a first day of the season on rock for my buddy and just so nice it was impossible to not just take it easy. Add to that some gear placing instruction and i would say it was a successful day.

Again thanks for the help. I hear the bugs can suck later in the season and it is more of a start and end of season even winter place. Anywhere else you can suggest half way between Boston and Portland?


DWT

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2012, 06:26:40 AM »
Humphrey's has lots of options.  Most of the anchors are bolted and the routes offer chances to place gear. 

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2012, 08:51:33 AM »
Humphrey's has lots of options.  Most of the anchors are bolted and the routes offer chances to place gear. 

it is assuredly not a sport area, but the bolts are solid and the gear is generally good.
Al Hospers
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DWT

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2012, 03:23:39 PM »
I never meant to give that impression.  I was trying to suggest a cool crag with a decent amount of moderate routes.

DLottmann

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2012, 09:32:43 PM »
Humphrey's has lots of options.  Most of the anchors are bolted and the routes offer chances to place gear. 

it is assuredly not a sport area, but the bolts are solid and the gear is generally good.

Many routes are bolted enough to be considered sport climbs. High Steppin (5.8), Tree Keys, (5.7), Yellow Jacket (5.7), and that 5.4 on the far right of Geriatric Wall can all be considered well protected sport routes, some with bolts placed so close you can clip two from the same stance (High Steppin), and some with bolts near solid natural gear (2nd to last bolt on Tree Keys).

Iím just getting to know the new development there but add those routes to Wanderlust (retro-bolted), Piece of Cake, Run Donít Walk, and the two routes to the immediate left of Dedication Corner and is ďassuredlyĒ quite similar to a sport area.

10 minute approach... all we need is a few more dogs and shirtless guys am I right?

Honestly, itís the terrible eroding trail to get to the cliff that keeps it from becoming a mini-Rumney, and the lack of a recent published guidebook...

Please note, Iím all for some relaxed clipping in MWV, just saying, a little bit of sport ainít a bad thing... everything in moderation... I prefer run-out ice climbing ;)

Offline alclimbup2

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2012, 06:48:44 PM »
"10 Minute approach,  all we need is a few more dogs and shirtless guys"

Laughed my ass off Dave, but you are pretty dead on, not that I have not enjoyed the retro bolt and new routes, but could see a big increase in traffic there and that trail is way fragile the whole way, is only going to get worse. With all due respect to Joe/Judy/Al, valid points, maybe a preventive maintainence to the trail before it gets worse, prob opening a can of worms as i just visited Humphreys last friday (perfect day) for 1st time in about 10 years, no easy answers to this one


Offline Admin Al

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2012, 08:05:23 PM »
FWIW the bolts on Wanderlust were done many years before the Geriatric Walls climbs were put up...

RE the trail: yeah, it's a problem. David G did some work on the extension off to Geriatric and yes, it needs additional efforts. there was work done about 10 years ago by an EMS crew on the initial portion of the regular trail and it was good for a while, but is getting funky now. fixing the trails to & from Humphrey's is not something that any 1,2 or 5 people are going to manage. it's a big job and there isn't going to be a group from outside that's going to come in and do it, so I'm not sure what will happen.
Al Hospers
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2012, 06:10:12 AM »
It's been my experience that you need some kind of official permission to fix or construct a trail. If you did have that permission how hard would it be to organize a trail day with this website?

DWT

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2012, 07:11:24 AM »
FWIW the bolts on Wanderlust were done many years before the Geriatric Walls climbs were put up...

RE the trail: yeah, it's a problem. David G did some work on the extension off to Geriatric and yes, it needs additional efforts. there was work done about 10 years ago by an EMS crew on the initial portion of the regular trail and it was good for a while, but is getting funky now. fixing the trails to & from Humphrey's is not something that any 1,2 or 5 people are going to manage. it's a big job and there isn't going to be a group from outside that's going to come in and do it, so I'm not sure what will happen.

If someone organizes the deal,  they can count me as signed up.  I have many tools for moving and setting stone and wood in place.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2012, 08:15:19 AM »
It's been my experience that you need some kind of official permission to fix or construct a trail.

I'm not sure if you do, if what you are going to do is to reinforce and existing trail, but honestly I don't know...

If you did have that permission how hard would it be to organize a trail day with this website?

good question... it's a great idea and I certainly would be willing and able to participate, however I don't think I want to be the one actually doing the organizing. ;=)
Al Hospers
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Offline JBrochu

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2012, 09:21:56 AM »
Just tell the locals someone retro bolted a whole bunch of 5.6's, and when they show up rabid and full of testosterone, take the crow bar out of their hands, and it replace it with a pick and shovel.



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Offline Jeff

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Re: Ice season 2011/2012 is over folks...
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2012, 03:58:51 PM »
Just tell the locals someone retro bolted a whole bunch of 5.6's, and when they show up rabid and full of testosterone, take the crow bar out of their hands, and it replace it with a pick and shovel.

LOFL  :)