Thoughts on Huntington?

[DWT]

Do you think a Sunday trip to Pinnacle gully would be a poor choice?  I had plans to rock climb on Sunday, but I'd really like to swing the tools one last time. 

The weather Sunday will be cloudy on Mount Washington.  The temps have been consistently below freezing, for a week,  with six inches of new snow.   

The avalanche site has a few pics of big ice strewn about the bottom of the ravine.  With a week of freezing temps, could this still be a concern?

Has anybody been into the ravine this week? 

I'm on the fence about this one and I'm hoping some of the more experienced climbers will "chime in".

[JBro]

I say go up and take a look. I suspect conditions might be ok, especially if you hit it really early. Bring an alpine rock rack too, and if the ice isn't safe, climb the NE Ridge of Pinnacle or another of the buttresses. 

One year on April 30 we climbed Pinnacle Gully in the early AM (started first pitch at 6:00am), and the NE Ridge of Pinnacle later in the day. Conditions had been similar during the week, with warm days but below freezing nights. However, that winter wasn't nearly as warm as this winter. But almost every year someone climbs ice in the Ravines in late October or very early November, when the days are warm but the nights dip below freezing. I don't see why you wouldn't find at least similar conditions this weekend.

Disclaimer: that all assumes safe avy conditions...


   

[fresh]

check out the pictures from 3/27 at the avalanche site: http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/

pinnacle looks good. I'm thinking of going up there saturday, but we'll see.

[slink]

DWT see the conditions report on NEIce.com there is a post from Wednesday Have fun.

[DLottmann]

I got a report tonight that it is in great shape from one of the snow rangers... go for it

[apbt1976]

I got a report tonight that it is in great shape from one of the snow rangers... go for it

God dam what the hell did i buy rock shoes and a chalk bag for

You mean i could have been running laps of Pinnacle and odell's the last month. I will not forget this next year come this time....

[Admin Al]

it's always a crap shoot this time of year. remember a week ago it was almost down.

[DWT]

Thx fellas.  I ticked one last run on Pinnacle gully today.  Now I can put the tools to bed.

[alclimbup2]

Nice motivation Derek, nursing a bad back right now, sucks gettin old

[apbt1976]

Thx fellas.  I ticked one last run on Pinnacle gully today.  Now I can put the tools to bed.

Jealous,

However now that i have been on rock a few times with the intention ultimately leading trad i see clearly it is a good thing the ice melts every year as it is gonna take time.

Still i have been tempted the last few days reading this all to not just sneak away by myself for one last hurrah on the ice.

Any pictures?

[lynchdogger]

Thx fellas.  I ticked one last run on Pinnacle gully today.  Now I can put the tools to bed.

Jealous,

However now that i have been on rock a few times with the intention ultimately leading trad i see clearly it is a good thing the ice melts every year as it is gonna take time.

Still i have been tempted the last few days reading this all to not just sneak away by myself for one last hurrah on the ice.

Any pictures?

Got mine yesterday.  Soloed Pinnacle yesterday and it was in great condition considering the bizzaro warm up in March.  Got great beta from young dude in parking lot who had climbed it Friday and he was spot on.  The return to winter has preserved what remained and would even say it is growing.  Had to wait for a party of two before me and by the time I got to the third pitch (top pitch of ice) I had a hard time finding signs of their travel in the hero ice.  Would say that it was thin in places compared to fatter years in early April but very much worth the effort.  Stay middle or left on first pitch - the right side is peeling away from the rock.  Did not hear any signs of hollowness or undermining.  The rest of the Ravine not so  (depending on your comfort level for baked out ice).  Snow climbs all that remain.  Maybe north but pretty thin and the top out is all rock.  South, Central and Diagonal still a go. Bring the micro spikes for in and out - esp up in the Alpine Garden and Lion's Head.  Go get it before it is gone.

Edit - FWIW, Alfonzo on NEI said that top 2/3 of Yale are thin/mossy but still good.  First pitch scary.

[JBro]

You must not have received the memo that ice season was OVER!   

[Admin Al]

there is always some stuff here & there late in the season. but I've personally made the move to warm rock and am not going to look back... [grin]

[JBro]

there is always some stuff here & there late in the season. but I've personally made the move to warm rock and am not going to look back... [grin]

Hey now, I'm just busting your chops!   

I've been out on rock 3 times myself. It's pretty amazing how dry most everything is already.

[apbt1976]

I also have been out on rock about 5 times at this point and am rather enjoying it. With a lack of partners this week and people talking about the cold temps up high and Pinnacle growing i was gonna up to Pinnacle tonight.

Then after some looking around this morning i see the summit has had up to 19' of new snow since Sunday. Maybe next week, or maybe my rock partners will surface again and i will not have to unpack all the winter gear? Ow well looks like a week with the dogs cutting the lawn and mulching the beds. One less thing to do when everyone gets their climbing bug for the season.