Don't normally publicize new routes, but this one is so good, I had to put it up so people might do it. It was put in ground up, much of it during the mild winter we've been having. It is in the new vermont rock guide "Tough Schist" which will be going on sale in the next month or two. Bring gear to hand sized with a focus on small aliens/mastercams.
When the approach trail hits the cliff, hike right about 300' to the lowest point of Marshfield Ledge. Locate a shallow right facing corner (P1 of Chris Elms' "Broken Leg" 5.10d mid 80s). This is just downhill and left of the peregrine ban area.
Above a big yellow birch tree growing out of the cliff 25' up just right of the corner you'll see a bolt in a brown slab. This is P1.
P1 : 5.8 PG 100' Climb past the yellow birch and up the brown slab on two bolts to a small headwall with a bolt. Climb the headwall up to awesome easy flake climbing up to a ledge with an oak tree. Belay here.
P2 : 5.10a 100' Make an interesting bouldery move off the ledge with a bolt above your head and climb past bomber horizontal cracks. Climb past 4 bolts with increasingly difficult slab and crimp moves (reminiscent of P2 of Beyond the Universe on Willard). Gain a ledge and then choose between a crack to hard 5.10 moves to the anchor or a runout traverse up and left to the anchor (5.7). Belay at the bolted anchor.
P3 : 5.10c 100' Climb up and right off the belay past gear in questionable flakes to a shallow tree ledge with a steep headwall above. Climb past two bolts to a faint dike in the rock. Climb with difficulty up to "the dong" hold. Surmount "the dong" and clip a bolt and make wild undercling smear moves up and left to a mantle. climb up and significantly right on thin 5.6/5.7 moves past decent gear to a bolt anchor on top of the second pitch of "Shorty's Poop Route".
P4 : 5.10c 150' Climb off up and left onto the slab above the anchor clipping the first bolt of Shorty's third pitch. Plunge straight up the slab above instead of breaking right (as for Shorty's) passing gear placements and a few bolts until just below a big swell headwall. There is a new bolt placed 6" right of Chris Elm's old bolt on Broken Leg which criss crosses deadline here. Didn't get a chance to pull the old one yet. Climb directly up the head wall past bolts and gear to an extremely thin series of moves to a down sloping ledge. Clip a bolt and move up and left up a 25' headwall to a 5.8 mantle at the top of the cliff (can be wet and mossy!!!).
9/2011-3/2012 T. Peckham, S.Maciejowski