Author Topic: Stop the Madness!  (Read 3528 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Stop the Madness!
« on: April 09, 2004, 03:56:52 pm »
well I had hoped that the statement about the missing pin on pitch 1 of Fun House wasn't true, but I had to check for myself. So after bouldering at Humphrey's this morning, I took a walk up to Cathedral to have a look. I scrambled up to the corner to get a close look, and unfortunately it was true. DAMN! the pin in the corner is no more. I spoken with Dave at the EMS Climbing School this morning and he also mentioned that all of the pins on Upper Refuse have also been stolen. these are the ones which were replaced last year, so they were less that 1 year old. based on this I would not at all be surprised to find that some of the pins at the Echo Roof area are gone too.

look, I don't know what the deal is with this. it is very hard for me to imagine that this has anything to do with ethics as these pins were there in the first ascent and are an integral part of the climbs. in both cases these are moderate climbs that are perfect vehicles for early stage leaders. while many of us climb the routes without using the fixed gear, many others rely on them. a climb like Fun House has people getting gripped and falling out of it almost every year. removing a key pin on a climb like this is not simply bad form, it puts people in danger. there is no reason for that.

I don't know who it is that keeps doing this, but I can tell you that if I find out we will have words and there are a number of others who definitely feel stronger action is necessary! this is nothing more than theft and vandalism. it should not be tolerated and should be dealt with appropriately.

Al
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Offline the_other_andy

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2004, 05:44:01 pm »
see who heads to the valley in the next few months, that might tell you something.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2004, 07:02:31 pm »
that's what I figure. it's theft, pure & simple.

Al
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Offline skibum

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2004, 07:30:30 pm »
  >:( Why the F**K do people steal pins. That pisses me off. I know its nothing new but why the hell woulnd anyone want to steal a pin. Maybe if you have a full trad rack you can make it with out this pin, but other climbers may need that pin. I just dont understand why one climber would prevent other climbers form doing the same route. Hopefully someone elses cathes the peson/people who are stealing them b/c if i catch them ill pop a cap in there ass

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2004, 08:19:51 pm »
Weather or not the rt's can be done without the pins is not the point. The point is that the pins are a historical part of the climb. They have allways been there and being beginner climbs they also help the newbies have a fun day. Whomever is stealing those pins needs a swift kick to the nuts followed by a sweet left uppercutt, overhand right follow through with the elbow. At this point your right hip should be snugg with their left hip, gently grasp their left wrist and spin counterclockwise about 90 degrees (this should be a natural extension of the empi (elbow) then suddenly reverse directions with a kote giashi being carefull not to shatter the wrist.  At this point with you left knee on the shoulder and a solid kote you should be able to wisper quite convinceingly in their ear and learn them the  error of their ways. If they don't seem to understand you still have the broken wrist option.  Tradmans beta of the day ;D
« Last Edit: April 09, 2004, 08:21:52 pm by tradmanclimbz »

Offline dogboy

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2004, 07:46:44 am »
This is bullshit and will not be tolerated.  If I have to go up there and glue the pins in, I will.  And if that doesn't work, I'll replace the pins with glue-in bolts.  I'm tired of putting pins back only to have them stolen by some inconsiderate a-hole who's too cheap to spring for his own nailing rack.  Get a goddam job and buy your own iron.
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2004, 10:02:56 am »
 ::) Ooh boy, looks like i was drinking whisky last night ::)

DLottmann

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2004, 02:12:28 pm »
I climbed Funhouse and Upper Refuse today.  What a shame.  The pin at the start of Funhouse is still there, but broken off right at the edge of the rock.  So some ass has the eye of the pin for a trophy... how sad.  Only the old ring pin above the Upper Refuse belay is still there.  And the pin anchor at the top of the 3rd pitch is gone.  That really sucks since it is hard to hear/see your second if you belay any higher.  Total lameness.
« Last Edit: April 10, 2004, 02:13:05 pm by DLottmann »

Offline scottie_c

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2004, 06:51:15 pm »
while it is clearly theft and vadalism, rest assure, bad kharma is always repaid.

Offline climbhigh

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2004, 07:37:56 pm »
and nobody thinks that all this madness was started by an IMCS so called guide?  Other than to scar the rock on thin air by choppin the bolts, what good did it do?  There are lame brain knuckle heads that looked up to Bayards juvenile antics.  I feel the operators of IMCS should step up to the plate and deal with one of their own.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2004, 01:58:48 pm »
The belay on upper refuse  was all brand spanking new pins last summer?  as for bayard's name getting dragged through the mud, that is somthing he better get used to. Pulling a high profile chop job on a high profile cliff pretty much gaurentees  infamy. Bayard will be remembered (and slandered) for chopping thin air above and regardless of  whatever actual climbing achivements he may accomplish in this life. That is human nature. Ken nichols for example is known for fistfights and bolt chopping. Few people recognize or care that he is a red hot climber. IMCS by not publicly repremanding bayard, condones his actions. A simelar  situation occured were the editor of Climbing magazine survived a bolt chopping incident only to be terminated for drunken stupid human tricks (colorado fire dance) in JT. I don't belive that bayard should have lost his job over the chopping issue but It would have been in the best intrests of IMCS to publicly distance itself from those actions.  Furthermore the party that removed the old pins should have replaced them. They obviously had a hammer with them so why not replace the belay?$$ If it was determined that the gear was not nessicary then the removal should have been discussed within the comunity. Just my 2 cents.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2004, 02:20:20 pm by tradmanclimbz »

Offline dogboy

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2004, 04:12:50 pm »
The pins on the belay on Upper Refuse were BRAND new last summer...I know the person who replaced them after the last a-hole stole them.  Plus, when pins started disappearing last year around this time, it was admitted by the thief (or at least someone posing as the thief) that he stole them to use in Yosemite (I also overheard a conversation in which said thief claimed that he was going to strip Whitney-Gilman of all it's pins for the same purpose).
It doesn't really matter why the pins were stolen...it's the fact that someone stole them, thus potentially endangering beginner climbers on a beginner trade route, that sucks.  If the hammer-wielding purist responsible were truly concerned about the safety of the 5.7 leader climbing community, he would have replaced the "mank" he stole with new pins...
I have stopped posting here for quite a while because I'm sick of getting into shouting matches with self-absorbed elitists who carry out commando style actions unsanctioned and unagreed-to by the majority of the NC climbing community.  I felt I had to comment on this latest round of theft, however, because it needs to be made clear that the majority of climbers in the Valley do not support or condone such actions (and will replace the stolen iron).
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2004, 04:44:38 pm »
Cleaning all the old pins from the WG on a nice warm sunny day might result in a real issue for the person doing the climb in winter. That climb gets done in all kinds of weather so just because you cruised it in optimal conditions don't make it right to clean the fixed gear that may be crucial in icy conditions.

Offline Andrew Bisharat

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2004, 07:09:44 am »
I went up on technosurfing the other day.  I ended up having to free solo the route because all the draws that i had heard were there had been stolen!  Right at the crux I thought, "Damn, where are all the draws that are normally on this route?" and of course I was too proud to downclimb so I just soloed the route all the way to the top of the cliff adding a new extension in the process.  My belayer said, "Hey, you need some draws!"  And I said, "Yeah, but where are they?  Where have all the draws gone?" so I flipped the rope over a flake or two when I could.

I wonder "who could've stolen the quickdraws, who could've done such a thing?" and when I imagine what type of person would do this, I imagine it's one of those "just-add-water-local-climbers" who become hyperbolically sensitive about new hampshire rock because that's what they're supposed to do.  

I can only imagine what would've happened if I am not such a badass...a mere 5.12 climber probably wouldn't have made it...

it really makes you think

Offline t-rad

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Re: Stop the Madness!
« Reply #14 on: April 12, 2004, 07:38:43 am »
hmmm...  why didn't you bring your own quickdraws?  why would you rely on gear that you only heard about being there?  you made a mistake in judgement.

adam t.