first, let me say that I have only climbed on cathedral a couple times, and don't know most of the routes involved. I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers, just wondering about the issue, because it seems a bit odd from outside the area. In this era of access issues, it's chatrooms like this that fuel land managers to shut down areas, ban fixed gear, etc, so I'm just hoping to get a little insight into the local history,thought and ethic behind the issue. I've heard of retroed bolts/chopping on Thin Air back into the mid 80's, but that's really all I know about it, and had no idea that pins were also an issue.
That said, this seems like a really different reaction to missing pins than has been the case in most other areas. There were many fixed pins all the way up such classic routes as the naked edge in Eldo, famous gunks routes, etc. Most of these have either been removed or fallen out over time--I can see replacing them when there is no alternative for gear, (some of the other pins in this case are necessary, I'm assuming?) but the photo on the homepage shows a pin in a very easily protectable crack (possibly even with visible scars from all the cams and nuts placed to back it up?? Or are those from the removal?). In either case, that makes me think that the safety argument doesn't hold water, so my question is: why is there such an uproar over pins missing when they are not necessary for someone to safely lead the route? Aside from sport-style convenience, SHOULD they be replaced? As far as the guidebook references, pins fall out all the time where I climb, and I was taught never to count on fixed gear someone told me about on a crack anyway--most guidebooks are erroneous at some point, and make a point of telling people that it's not a static medium, anyway.
I ask this not to create controversy, only because it seems to me from outside the area that unneccessary fixed gear is more of a safety hazard than not having it (how many newbie leaders really take the time to back it up or even know how to tell if it's good a few years from now?) but also because I see placing/replacing a pin in a cam placement on the same slippery slope as a bolt next to a handcrack, retroing the american direct, etc.-- heck, maybe we should just bolt women in love or the mordor wall so i can do it, etc.... (I know this was how the 1st ascent was done, but we don't nail these routes anymore for a reason--why stick to tradition if there's a better/cleaner/safer/more ethical way?).
Again, please don't take this for an antagonistic response, I'm just a bit baffled by the commotion over this particular pin that was pictured, and hoping for some insight into the local ethic--is it convenience, or the local dependance on teaching climbing, or the principal, etc. that's behind the reaction?
Thanks,
Dave
