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Author Topic: Bombardment..  (Read 2566 times)

apbt1976

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Bombardment..
« on: April 19, 2012, 08:41:34 AM »

What is the deal with the bolts to the start of Bombardment at Cathedral?

All we had was a old book and it was unclear what the true start of the climb was. I am now pretty sure after taking a look on rappel and then on MP that it was the white dike just over the roof?

Still that three bolt slab was a bitch what is the info on that?

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2012, 09:11:46 AM »

no bolts on Bombardment ever - with the exception of the (abortive) attempt to add an anchor & save the trees.

the climb starts up on a small ledge, just left of an obvious roof and climbs a short unprotected slab to a tree. the start of the "real" climb is the dike to the crack just behind the sappy tree.
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Al Hospers
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alclimbup2

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2012, 10:12:10 AM »

Al , while there are no bolts on the true Bombardment route, at the beginning 5.6 runout part, there are now a series of bolts (saw them for first time last year after not doing that route for about 10 years) at the beginning, just left of the 5.6 runout part, up blank slab, goes straight up, instead of veering right a bit at the beginning to keep it at 5.6

Someone had told me who put those bolts up but I forget who that was, I think they said it was 5.10, perhaps it is a seperate route somehow?, cause was surprised it had not been chopped so the intent cant be to be part of bombardment, it was kinda disapoinitng seeing that there, in my opinion

who else knows the history of those bolts?
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old_school

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2012, 10:28:14 AM »

It is a 5.10..three bolts and you can get gear in the diagonal crack to protect the exit moves. I believe George Hurley put those in about 3 years ago. It is kind of a fun alternative to the start of Bombardment. Pretty stout for a short little route, but good moves.
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

alclimbup2

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2012, 10:55:51 AM »

thanx old school, thats right they did say it was George, I guess its ok, specially since he must have put them up on the lead, just was such a shock seeing those shiny new bolts after not doing that route for years, hope you are healing up fine 
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apbt1976

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2012, 11:19:58 AM »

Ow man i really hope i did not start something.... It was not my intent, it doesn't seam like it will start a shit storm but one can never tell with the interweb. Can we try and keep it the topic mellow as i am really trying to make friends at this point and not the other way around.

Anyway that is exactly the info i was looking for. Thank you all very much for chirping in on this guys. Def a slippery little son of a pitch that's for sure!
« Last Edit: April 19, 2012, 11:37:36 AM by apbt1976 »
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Jeff

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2012, 11:46:20 AM »

"Son of a Pitch"-- LMAO--I like it--may use it sometime as a route name!! As for slippery, it is indeed; I've done it 3 times now for grins over the past 2 years and only made it once without at least one  of those bolts catching me! Fun little variant!
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old_school

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2012, 01:20:08 PM »

Oh no worries apbt1976....no shit storm here! You are certainly not the first to ask. The move after the last bolt is thin! Pretty fun variation for sure Jeff.

Healing up well my friend. It is a pretty slow and painful process, but no question I will be out there in the next few weeks. I sent Standard route on Whitehorse last Sunday...but don't tell anyone...I am not supposed to be out there yet!! :-X

Grammy
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Jeff

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2012, 05:37:59 PM »

Grammy, I have no doubt you'll be back at it soon, and as far as ratting you out,  :-X lol! After all, I'm the guy who, when my surgeon told me at 6 months post hip replacement surgery that I'd be safe to ski again, said "I know", to which he responded "when did you start" and I answered "you don't want to know, but I've got about 5 weeks under my belt". That said, brother, don't push it too hard and set yourself back --it's just not worth the hassle, and wives don't give you ANY sympathy if you do!
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old_school

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2012, 07:43:08 PM »

Sound advice Jeff!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Admin Al

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2012, 07:52:08 PM »

...and wives don't give you ANY sympathy if you do!

LOL
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2012, 09:21:01 PM »

thanx old school, thats right they did say it was George, I guess its ok, specially since he must have put them up on the lead...

Ummm, why must they have been on lead? Chances are they weren’t. I put up a route with George above the North End a few years ago, The Liger, and he bolted that on rappel.

I think many of us would prefer bolts where they are needed vrs. bolts where you can stand and drill... just my $.02
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dpen

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2012, 11:27:02 PM »

I like Son of a pitch, but the original is cool too.

I've done SOAP twice.  Once on a hot kinda greasy day and I think i tested that second or third bolt too.   A second time on a drier day it was really nice but still had my attention for little pitch..

Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough
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old_school

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2012, 06:16:49 AM »

Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough

Getting there Dave! A bit of a setback this week for some reason? I think I may have pushed it too hard at PT Wednesday....very sore and tender. But soon enough...you up for it? 
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

alclimbup2

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Re: Bombardment..
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2012, 06:36:51 AM »

Dave: I was assuming George would put something like that up on cathedral on lead, but ok, I should not assume anything, sure it is a fun 30 foot challenge, it just looked so out of place after not being there for a decade or so, I take it back, I take it back
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