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[Stickyfingerz]

What are peoples thoughts...

I have tried the Mythos on and they fit my feet awesome...

I wish my dogs could handle the Katanas but they destroy my achilles. They climb like a dream in comparison to my Coyotes, so much so it makes me want to suffer the Katanas out however i just can't do it...

For micro and small edges and smearing how do the Mythos and TcPros compare to each other. I really want something stiff that edges well for the small stuff...

Get a hold of a pair of TC Pros, they are essentially a trad version of the Katanas. They use the same last, but they've relaxed the heel rand, decreased the toe volume, stiffened them up considerably, and they cover your anklebone for wide cracks. Size them with a slight toe curl for a performance fit, as they will stretch a little.

The Mythos are super soft, and round in the toebox. Good for thin cracks and friction, but not a good choice for wider cracks or edging. Having said that, it's ultimately all about the fit of the shoe and your foot. If they fit you better, that's more important, get them. They are unlined and will stretch a lot, at least a full size.

[apbt1976]

Freaking new local gear store that has been all gung ho about ordering me anything i need anytime contacts me 3-4 days after i place an order to tell me they can not get the TcPros in my size until Mid summer. Before said there retail store moved into my local mall i ordered a sleeping bag from them with a free 2nd day shipping promo. It ended up taking over 2 weeks to get the dam bag. Had i known i woulda payed the shipping as i needed the bag for a trip. The best they could do was give me like 10% off and really did not care i felt dicked around or if i ever purchased with them again. Needless to say i think i am done buying from them!!

I am just gonna order the shoes online from like Backcountry or REI so i can return them with ease if they don't fit. How are people sizing the TcPro and Mythos  in comparison the their street shoe. I wear a 11.5 US men's shoe. Although one foot is a whole half size smaller give or take?

Thanks for the help again.....

[gaiagirl]

"I am just gonna order the shoes online from like Backcountry or REI so i can return them with ease if they don't fit. How are people sizing the TcPro and Mythos  in comparison the their street shoe. I wear a 11.5 US men's shoe. Although one foot is a whole half size smaller give or take?"

Looks as if maybe the 11.5 does not exist.  Zappos.com also has them for the same price, believe it or not.
Here's a link to them on amazon. 
http://www.amazon.com/La-Sportiva-Mens-Climbing-Shoe/dp/B007KG7QDG

[punxnotdead]

I wear a 10 1/2 - 11 street shoe. I bought a 42.5 TCpro, it stretched out in 3 days. I can tighten them or loosen them to my needs.

[old_school]

Please don't give me negative karma <grin> but I didn't warm up to the TC Pros. I found the XS Edge rubber to be long wearing...but shitty on slab. They slipped all over the first pitch of Ego Trip and Seventh Seal...gave the heart a jump for sure! Then I tried them on Chris's 12b/c project at the Hump and couldn't seem to get them to hold an edge (a very stiff and insensitive shoe). Could be pilot error...but my 5.10 Verdes and Gallieos stuck like glue. I have to admit that they were hands down the most comfortable shoe I have ever tried on...right out of the box I was standing in them all day. Construction seems good but the tongue design sucks...I found what you have to do is just push the tongue all the way down and then pull it back out...not sure why they were designed this way...but to each his own. They are awesome in cracks however...by far the most comfortable to jam and torque in anything 3" and up! Regardless, I prefer my Miuras over the TC's anyday.

The mythos never fit my foot. Wish they did because I have heard great things about them. My feet would cramp up in them, but they have a huge following and have for years. Just my 2 cents FWIW.

[apbt1976]

The only other LS rock shoe i have experience with is the Katana. Like i said i have two different size feet by almost by a half size. My running sneakers are a 11.5 and i wear LS trail runners. The Katanas i bought in a size 43... they felt good in the store, def on the tight side but i figured they would stretch and i did not want them to end up overly loose. In the end i wore them for two days and my achilles were killing me!!! Granted i have achilles problems on and off but rock and ice climbing never seem to bother it. I wonder if it was the shoe or the size, i may have sized them waaay to small?

Being i am ordering a zillion pairs of shoes as i also need new trail runners i think i am gonna add the Pythons to the quiver  with the Mythos and TcPros,  from what i read the Pythons are a very nice all around shoe also? I tried the cobras on in the store and the heel did run a bit high and maybe in the end would end up bothersome to my achilles?  Otherwise they felt real good. I guess the Cobra is a improved version of the Cobra?

Anyway time to throw a G on the credit card for a couple weeks sigh.....

[frik]

I would be very wary of ordering Mythos online if you haven't fitted them first. I like the boot, but the stretch factor kind of screws up the whole process.  They don't come close to their potential if they are not snug.   

[apbt1976]

I would be very wary of ordering Mythos online if you haven't fitted them first. I like the boot, but the stretch factor kind of screws up the whole process.  They don't come close to their potential if they are not snug.   

Just got back from REI and figured some sizing out. Well at least on the Mythos? Was also able to try on the Miura Vs and get a size on those also. I am gonna do my best to use size comparison and reviews on Backcountry and various other blogs to order the right size. If i get em form Backcountry and i can they can all be returned if they don't work. It a real fucking pain in the ass!!

[apbt1976]

Got both the Tc Pros and the Cobras in the mail today.

Hands down at least on my feet the Tc Pro is the clear winner. Man is this shoe cozy and from what i can tell edging around on random stuff in and around my house a edging machine as others have said. I am a 11.5 in casual shoes with one foot being a half size smaller at size 11 even. The shoes fit perfect on my big foot and on my small foot they feel fine now but i am worried they may stretch and end up big. As is the laces at near my ankle only have like 3/4 inch between them. If i press around the toes i may have a tiny tiny bit of extra room in from of my big toe. My other foot the toes have a slight crunch and the ankle is spread apart plenty if the shoe stretches.

Thoughts on size?

I kinda wanted to keep the Pythons also as they are a whole different animal and pretty sweet them self. The fit was a little funky on my low volume foot with extra leather on the top of my foot. Otherwise they fit great and felt great on. Maybe if i sized them down a size the upper would fit better? Anyway i have a feeling the Tc will end up getting 99.9% of my use so why have another pair of shoes around that are not perfect. Plus i put $500 of shoes on my credit card and needed to return 2 of the 4 pairs as i just don't have it like that....

Anyway thanks for the help and i cant wait to get out this coming week and give these thing s a test drive!!!

[old_school]

good luck with the TC's bro. See you out there this spring!

[punxnotdead]

Soooo. update.

The Tcpros were a great shoe.  BUT..... the 42.5's I had (I have 10 1/2- 11 US feet)  stretched so miuch this summer that I had to wear socks with them.  Also, the rand on each side of the ball of my feet completely delaminated.  NOT impressed!  Brought them back to EMS to exchange for a Miura. But the Miuras dont fit my feet well (My second toe is just as long as my first toe).  I could see them working really well for pockets etc.  Also, I got 42.5"s the miuras, but they definitely dont stretch as fast as the TCpros. 

Soooo.  I am going to bring the Miuras back and exchange them for the time tested Mythos, which fit my feet really well and feel great in all types of climbing (I dont do much super steep climbing anymore).

Bill

[sneoh]

Bill, sorry to hear about your TC Pro.
The Mythos stretch a lot with use (of course you know this already).  How do you compensate for that?
The Miura Lace and Miura VS fit very differently.  Did you try both?

[punxnotdead]

I will check out the other miura this weekend. I will also check out other companies too.  I really like the toe box of the mythos (not so pointy). I do understand that stretch is an issue with most shoes.  I did like the way the tcpros fit, but they kept stretching?  Plus, the fact that the rand delaminated  so quickly is a real downer for shoes that are so expensive.

Not an easy choice, but thankfully EMS is really good with their return policy.

Bill

[sneoh]

I have Scarpa Vapor for my indoor shoe (more toe-down, very sticky rubber) and they do not seem to stretch  much at all.  They do not fit my feet as well as Sportiva but good enough for playing around indoors.
Outdoors I have the Katana Lace which is better at edging ..... but I too see quality problems after about 8 months of use. Both soles are delaminating a bit at the same spot on the inside edge!  Makes micro edging a touch tricky so I have resorted to toe-pointing more to compensate.  Of course this accelerates the wear on the rand ..... I am going to try to get them resoled after outdoor season winds down.

I know Grammy likes Scarpa shoes!

[punxnotdead]

Went and picked up a pair of Mythos size 42.5. They felt just like the pair I had 8 years ago! Im glad I went back.