Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[hobbsj]

I'm the kinda guy who buys five pairs of running shoes when the model I like is discontinued.  So, needless to say that its been a while since I looked in to the climbing shoe market.  I love my Cobras, but they've been resoled enough that I don't think they'll make another season.  What are the kids climbing in these days?  My cobras are older and stretched out, so not the super tight aggressive fit people think of with a lot of slippers.  Any recommendations?  I climb mostly crack and face stuff.  I love the convenience of a slipper, but also like the ability to loosen up a lace up.  Thought maybe velcro would be good, but could see it coming undone with some foot jams, plus it seems most velcro shoes are super aggressive.  And I prefer brands sold at EMS and REI for ease of return if needed rather than the "super limited run through a guy you know if Europe" type stuff.  Any recommendations are appreciated.

[sneoh]

Try the Phyton or Katana.  Both have velcro.  Neither is super aggressive.

[strandman]

I like my red chili's but they may be harder to find

[DLottmann]

Loving my Five Ten VMile’s. Bit pricey and out of stock at EMS at the moment, but available for special order. These are new this year and they look promising;

http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3931620&cp=3677347.12850501.12850510

[ELM]

I have limited shoe experiance but the La Sportive TC pro's are just an amazing shoe. Look at the thread here comparing the TC pro and the Mythos and there is more info.

[Admin Al]

TC Pro ++

[Admin Al]

I was climbing in these a couple of days ago and realized that they were edging well, and then when I put my foot on a nubbin I could really feel it through the rubber. it made me feel very confident.

[apbt1976]

John for what it is worth i returned those Katanas to Ems and got a full credit.

I know have a pair of TC Pros and a pair of mythos on order in three sizes each shoe in hopes of getting it right this time.

I have tons of time to dork out on the interweb or at least i find the time and it seems the form what i can tell people really like the TCpro if it fits your foot?

Also i tried on the Cobras you wear and tbh they felt pretty darn good to me. I have seen em on sale for like $80 as of late.

[hobbsj]

Any thoughts on the lave up Miura?  I want to try the TCPRO and Mythos on, but the Portland EMS doesn't have them in.  The Miura felt solid, but also seems like it could be a bit excessively aggresive.  ANy thoughts?

[sneoh]

I have a very old (on third resole) lace-up Miura and they have been my go-to shoes for a very long time. They are very good on edges and durable.  My failure on any thin-face is not because of them, I can tell you.  Now that they are completely broken-in (and more), I can smear OK with them and climb steep boulder problems with them as well.
My new shoe is Katana Lace.  You might want to check it out too.  I find it only slightly more aggressive than the Miura lace-up but the Katana is narrower.  And it is an edging monster while they are not 100% borken in yet. 

[old_school]

Any thoughts on the lave up Miura?  I want to try the TCPRO and Mythos on, but the Portland EMS doesn't have them in.  The Miura felt solid, but also seems like it could be a bit excessively aggresive.  ANy thoughts?

Miura is my #1 go to shoe as well. Far less aggressive than they look. Very comfortable and very precise. They stopped using the Vibram XS Grip and now use the XS edge (which is the rubber used on the TC Pros). I don't like it nearly as much as the XS Grip... as it is less sticky and less sensitive, but it will be longer wearing and will edge on a dime! Definitely one to seriously consider that is equally at home on Cathedral or Rumney!

[apbt1976]

Any thoughts on the lave up Miura?  I want to try the TCPRO and Mythos on, but the Portland EMS doesn't have them in.  The Miura felt solid, but also seems like it could be a bit excessively aggresive.  ANy thoughts?

Miura is my #1 go to shoe as well. Far less aggressive than they look. Very comfortable and very precise. They stopped using the Vibram XS Grip and now use the XS edge (which is the rubber used on the TC Pros). I don't like it nearly as much as the XS Grip... as it is less sticky and less sensitive, but it will be longer wearing and will edge on a dime! Definitely one to seriously consider that is equally at home on Cathedral or Rumney!

My shoe saga also continues. I feel like figuring out a proper rock shoe fit kinda goes hand and hand with learning to climb rock.

I had the miura VS on at a local shop yesterday and on a wall. Man those shoes are sweet little machines!

My question "Old School i show do you size yours. I am a 45 in LS sneakers and boots. But had the had to down size the Miura to a 42.5 to get a nice fit in the heel and bottom of my foot. Does that seem a bit much to you 2.5 sizes o is that kinda normal?

[tradchick]

Another vote for the miuras.  I didn't size down on mine at all but they aren't this years shoe either.  I have worn different sizes depending on the year I bought them.

[old_school]

My question "Old School i show do you size yours. I am a 45 in LS sneakers and boots. But had the had to down size the Miura to a 42.5 to get a nice fit in the heel and bottom of my foot. Does that seem a bit much to you 2.5 sizes o is that kinda normal?

I loved my VS's by the way! No, 2.5 doesn't seem strange. I wear a 45 as well (shoe size a pretty solid 11) and the 42.5's are perfect for me in both the TC Pros and the Miuras. The Miuras will relax but wont stretch the way the TC's seem to. It's weird because I take an 11 in five ten! The sizes are all over the frigging place..lol

[sneoh]

Yeah sizing can be rather inconsistent, even within a brand;
when I wore Mythos, I would size downsize them by 1.5 to 2.0 sizes.  For my one pair of Miura, I downsized by 1.0 and it still killed my feet for years (I can only have them on for < 1.5 hours even after 3 resoles).  For the Katana Lace, after some discussion with DougM at a shoe demo, I only downsized by 0.5 and they are TIGHT (especially width wise).  So far, it has been strictly a 1-pitch shoe.