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Author Topic: shoes  (Read 9680 times)

Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #30 on: May 30, 2012, 01:34:34 pm »
LOL...after climbing in Fires and Calmas for a few years..the Megas seemed like they were created by aliens. Couldn't believe how precise they were. I remember watching Stefan Glowacz send "to bolt or not to be" at smith with the Megas...the dude stopped half way up to remove his shirt and went on to get the send....amazing!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #31 on: June 03, 2012, 05:48:10 pm »
Been using the Scarpa Vapor V's and now the Instincts and I have to tell you I am digging them! Heinz still knows his shit! ;)
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Offline terminusnout

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Re: shoes
« Reply #32 on: June 07, 2012, 05:51:00 pm »
As a recent Sportiva convert I would highly suggest the Katana Lace: Not too down turned but aggressive enough for sport climbing or hard gear routes. For bouldering and thin crack I keep a well maintained pair of Cobras, they are sensitive but not to an extent where toe pain is an issue. I just bought a pair of Tarantulace while advertised as a novice/intermediate shoe provide ample, comfortable support but able to edge and smear up thin Whitehorse slabs.
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Offline sneoh

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Re: shoes
« Reply #33 on: June 07, 2012, 09:32:12 pm »
Quote from: terminusnout on June 07, 2012, 05:51:00 pm
As a recent Sportiva convert I would highly suggest the Katana Lace: Not too down turned but aggressive enough for sport climbing or hard gear routes.
Another Katana Lace convert!  Glad to know and well deserved.
As I had mentioned, last time out, I really felt that I was "letting the shoes down" by not climbing harder.  Just 3 months ago, I could not have imagined a shoe that is so much better for me than the highly regarded Miuras.
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Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #34 on: June 08, 2012, 07:16:49 am »
Quote from: sneoh on June 07, 2012, 09:32:12 pm
Another Katana Lace convert!  Glad to know and well deserved.

Came very close to pulling the trigger on a pair of these. Got a great price on the Instincts which are a similar shoe. Let me know how you guys like those Katana laces!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline Joe_Re

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Re: shoes
« Reply #35 on: June 08, 2012, 07:52:02 am »
I've had a pair of Nagos for almost two years and they're finally ready for a resole/retiring.  Man, they climb very well.  I've climbed harder and harder over the winter and while throwing myself at V this and that in the gym (in old worn shoes), I've noticed their (my?) limits.  On rope I haven't found their limits cause I don't climb hard enough.  I think I've gotten to the point that two pair of shoes may be the ticket, but I just can't help but wonder about the folks who were pushing grades (12s &13s) twenty plus years ago in the shoes they did and how much of this is really shoes and how much is me needing to climb more.

Joe.
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"Men hang out signs indicative of their respective trades: shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; a jewler a monster watch; and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but in the Franconia Mountains of New Hampshire god almighty has hung out a sign to say in New England he makes men".
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Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #36 on: June 08, 2012, 10:58:22 am »
Quote from: Joe_Re on June 08, 2012, 07:52:02 am
but I just can't help but wonder about the folks who were pushing grades (12s &13s) twenty plus years ago in the shoes they did and how much of this is really shoes and how much is me needing to climb more.

Joe.

counts for a great deal, that is for sure!  ;)  +1
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: shoes
« Reply #37 on: June 09, 2012, 01:12:06 pm »
I was neverable to outclimb the old boreal Vectors with S2 rubber.. I tried.

When mega's came out, things like Airation got easier because you could stand on the nubbers better. So much hard crack climbing in NE is footwork.

Soon- when your shoes get floppy, i got some 12 slab you can onsight    :-\
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Offline sneoh

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Re: shoes
« Reply #38 on: June 09, 2012, 03:36:57 pm »
Quote from: strandman on June 09, 2012, 01:12:06 pm
Soon- when your shoes get floppy, i got some 12 slab you can onsight    :-\
I have ZERO chance making it on this, John.
Anyone remember the Sportiva Kendos?  I saw Whitey climb impressive stuff/routes with these.  I think they were around about the same time as Megas.


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Offline strandman

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Re: shoes
« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2012, 04:42:17 pm »
Kendo's made mega's seem as comfy as bedroom slippers
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Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #40 on: June 09, 2012, 11:27:23 pm »
Quote from: strandman on June 09, 2012, 04:42:17 pm
Kendo's made mega's seem as comfy as bedroom slippers

Why did they ever stop making those shoes????

Loved the Boreal vectors too. Those bumped my climbing up two grades. I wept the day I blew out of them...again....discontinued... <sigh>

Loved my Scarpa Instincts today though...fantastic shoe! Getting out again tomorrow to help them stretch!
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline sneoh

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Re: shoes
« Reply #41 on: June 09, 2012, 11:47:18 pm »
Vectors ... are they the black and pink shoes from the early 90's?  Soft, almost slipper like?
Boreal still makes the Ace in one form or another.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #42 on: June 10, 2012, 06:58:09 am »
Quote from: sneoh on June 09, 2012, 11:47:18 pm
Vectors ... are they the black and pink shoes from the early 90's?  Soft, almost slipper like?
Boreal still makes the Ace in one form or another.

Those were the Lasers sneoh...another decent little shoe. The Vectors were black a purple. Very soft leather that molded to your foot, and they edged on a dime. Amazing little shoe back in the day.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2012, 07:56:24 am by old_school »
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: shoes
« Reply #43 on: June 11, 2012, 09:17:32 am »
Damn it G- those look brand new !!! How much ? What size ????
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Offline old_school

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Re: shoes
« Reply #44 on: June 11, 2012, 09:30:24 am »
Quote from: strandman on June 11, 2012, 09:17:32 am
Damn it G- those look brand new !!! How much ? What size ????

Blew out of mine years ago bro....these I ripped off from the net! I remember sending the utility crack boulder at the pound in Rumney and never once felt like I was gong to peel. I miss some of these old designs....the kendo specifically!  :-\
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."
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