shoes

[hobbsj]

Since the TC pro's seem to be popular and the doc said the aggressive bend would actually be better for my hurt hoof,  how much do they stretch in your experience?  How about the miura lace?  I think I've narrowed it down to those two.  The rain has given me the luxury of taking my time with this major decision.

[apbt1976]

Tc pro is next to flat imo and not very aggressive. You could size them way down and get some good performance out of them though. I really wish they had fit my foot as they seem like a sweet all day shoe. My foot is way low volume and in the length i need for a proper fit the laces nearly pull together.

Muira lace also imop is not a very aggressive shoe. If you are looking for aggressive as in nice full arch support "for that foot problem of yours" i would look more at shoes like the Solutions, Pythons or Futuras sized way way down as to hold your foot in a arched position.

Just my two cents and what has worked for my splayed rapidly flattening tired old feet.

[old_school]

Scarpa Magos and La Sportiva Testarosas are also a very aggressive downturned shape. I have the Magos and can attest to that! Plus I have found that the Magos seem to be holding their shape. May want to check those out as well.

[ELM]

The TC pro stretched about 1/4 a size for me. The only issue I had was the tongue trying to curl at first. Overall the bend is not that bad. The bend is bad enough that they make a poor slab shoe for me, cannot get my foot flat: I only use them face climbing. At that they are amazing. I was cleaning pro a few weeks back and just rested my foot on a small edge, barely two nickels wide...when I went to go I weighted the foot not thinking and cringed expecting to roll off but they held me there on that tiny edge like glue. Never sure if I'll climb as well as they can.

[sneoh]

The amount of toe-down is only one consideration.  You will also want check out the side-to-side asymmetry of the toe box.  Most aggressive shoes also quite a bit of 'toe-in' in addition to a healthy dose of toe-down.  For example, I cannot wear the Miura VS because I found that the 'toe-in' to be too much for me.  The Katana Lace has sufficient toe-down (same P3 platform as Solution, TC Pro, etc) but almost no 'toe-in' so I went with them.  A friend of mine told that the Phyton has quite a bit of 'toe-in' too.  YMMV so check them out for yourself.

[old_school]

4 weeks with the Scarpa Instincts and I will never look back! Best shoes I have ever worn. Now I need to figure out a way to afford another pair!!!

[xcrag_corex]

anybody know of a shop around here that might sell the new evolve astromans? they seem like a similar style to the tc pros but a little closer to affordable for me. i avoid ordering shoes online because i have weird feet and it would cost an arm and a leg and take forever to play the red rover shoes through the mail game. any insight would help. thanks
-Jeremy

[Admin Al]

ELM: strange what you said about the TC Pro being too curved for slab. I use them for slab and face all the time. Climbed all the routes on the Little Slab at Found Ledge last Thursday and they were great. Jeff L did the same. I've never thought of them as having much of a curve. I guess YMMV!

[ELM]

Al I saw you last year on Whitehorse wearing them. I found I just could not get my foot flat enough for slab. I will say that this was when they were newer and now they are more broken in. This year is not a good year feet wise for me but I will give them another go at it.....

[old_school]

Al I saw you last year on Whitehorse wearing them. I found I just could not get my foot flat enough for slab. I will say that this was when they were newer and now they are more broken in. This year is not a good year feet wise for me but I will give them another go at it.....

I have found them to be a really nice edging shoe, and excellent in cracks, but I feel that they are just too stiff and insensitive to be a good slab shoe. I can't feel anything under my feet when I am wearing them...I just have to trust that they will stick where I put them.

[Admin Al]

that's so weird to hear... I have been using them on hardish slab all year and was just thinking that I could feel everything through them. maybe my feet are hypersensitive. [wry grin]

[sneoh]

4 weeks with the Scarpa Instincts and I will never look back! Best shoes I have ever worn. Now I need to figure out a way to afford another pair!!!

Grammy, are your Instincts the Velcro or slipper version? 
I am consider the slipper for gym and bouldering. 
How did you size yours?
Thanks for all the tips you can provide.

[old_school]

Grammy, are your Instincts the Velcro or slipper version? 
I am consider the slipper for gym and bouldering. 
How did you size yours?
Thanks for all the tips you can provide.

The scarpa sizes run a bit smaller than Sportiva. I would almost equate my 43.5 Instinct to the 42.5 Miura...scarpa may feel a bit roomier? I probably could have gone with the 44 in the Instinct but went with the tighter fit, and they have broken in nicely. I have the velcro Vapor V's in a 44, but found that they really dug onto my heels...as they have a somewhat aggressive heel cup that sits a bit lower than the miuras or similar shoes. I really have to say that these are hands down the best shoes I have worn to date and they perform equally well on slab, thin face and thin cracks.I may buy another pair in a larger size...perhaps 44.5 for all day use and guiding.

Hope that helps?

[sneoh]

Got my new Scarpa Vapor V broken in.  Good shoe, too bad it does not fit me just right; toe box is a little too narrow and the heel is bit too big.  Overall still very good, just not as good for me as Katana Lace (both same size).  One advantage the Vapor has over the Katana is the the rubber.  XS Grip 2 is crazy sticky.

I am happy that I got the Vapor V at a very good price. 

[old_school]

Got my new Scarpa Vapor V broken in.  Good shoe, too bad it does not fit me just right; toe box is a little too narrow and the heel is bit too big.  Overall still very good, just not as good for me as Katana Lace (both same size).  One advantage the Vapor has over the Katana is the the rubber.  XS Grip 2 is crazy sticky.

I am happy that I got the Vapor V at a very good price.

Vapor V didn't quite fit me right either, though I did like them very much which is why I switched to the Instinct instead. A little more volume in the forefoot and the heel fit much better, plus I can use the laces to tweak the fit that much more. I too love the XS Grip 2, great stuff!