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cold weather, aid climbing

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lucky luke:
Very few beginer thing to practice to place protection as they aid climb a route. Many of you think that we most do murdorwall to be good, but there is very nice pitches to do at Barber wall or pine tree eliminate at cathedral.

As you aid, you can see how is your nut's placement: direction of the pull, contact surface and solidity of the rock. It is also good to evaluate the distance of a fall if your pro pop up. Some times, I played on the cliff to use the most marginal pro. Ounce I have two or three good pro, I place the best protection, remove it, try an other not as good, remove it and progress on the third one. It is a very good exercise to get confidence on the pro. An other training is to place as much pro as you can on top rope. this will help you after to place good protection on lead and it will help to find good rest places. some  times the rest is lower than the place where you slot the tricam, you have to climb up, fix the pro and come back to the rest.

As the weather is cold, you will use a lot of power to do the pitch, but you are going to be in better condition to climb trad route with other difficulty than a physical movement. 

climb safe   

apbt1976:
I think we should start referring to Champ as Rain Man. His whole internet persona has really become the same thing just swap the mathematics genius for a climbing safety nerd.

Anyone insulted by my analogy i apologize it is just a freaking joke. How many Negative Karma points will this one get me. If i was a sissy i might just delete it. I thought about it but i am laughing at myself way to hard and i just gotta share...

And Champ you do not bother me one bit so please laugh along and take no offense... please!!

strandman:
Something about aid climbing...

Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness

lucky luke:

--- Quote from: strandman on April 28, 2012, 10:22:23 AM ---Something about aid climbing...
Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness

--- End quote ---

thank you strandman. you keep it positive. In doing aid climbing, I learn my mathematic skill to protect myself as standing on a piece of pro let you thing at the fall and gave you the opportunity to understand why you are or not safe.

Beginer ask some questions about how they should trust there pro. Some climber can do run out of seven or ten feet and be too scary to aid climb. I think that when you aid climb and your pro pop out in front of your nose, you know at least why the pro is not good. Personally, I never know when a protection is good, but if i don't hink that is bad, I can trust it.

At cathedral, on the rappel line from upper refuse ledge, in the corner, there is a line pretty difficult to climb in aid. I think is an A-2 with rp's overhanging situation. never saw people on that one and it was pretty durty. I climbed only the first feet, to the ledge on the left before the final crack. 

DMan:

--- Quote from: champoing on April 28, 2012, 09:57:18 PM ---
--- Quote from: strandman on April 28, 2012, 10:22:23 AM ---Something about aid climbing...
Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness

--- End quote ---
At cathedral, on the rappel line from upper refuse ledge, in the corner, there is a line pretty difficult to climb in aid. I think is an A-2 with rp's overhanging situation. never saw people on that one and it was pretty durty. I climbed only the first feet, to the ledge on the left before the final crack.

--- End quote ---

I think you are thinking of Travesty, I met you in person that day you were on it. And people would know where you were talking about if you said “just left of Lower Refuse/Brown’s Fist”.

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