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Author Topic: cold weather, aid climbing  (Read 1221 times)

lucky luke

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cold weather, aid climbing
« on: April 27, 2012, 07:10:10 PM »

Very few beginer thing to practice to place protection as they aid climb a route. Many of you think that we most do murdorwall to be good, but there is very nice pitches to do at Barber wall or pine tree eliminate at cathedral.

As you aid, you can see how is your nut's placement: direction of the pull, contact surface and solidity of the rock. It is also good to evaluate the distance of a fall if your pro pop up. Some times, I played on the cliff to use the most marginal pro. Ounce I have two or three good pro, I place the best protection, remove it, try an other not as good, remove it and progress on the third one. It is a very good exercise to get confidence on the pro. An other training is to place as much pro as you can on top rope. this will help you after to place good protection on lead and it will help to find good rest places. some  times the rest is lower than the place where you slot the tricam, you have to climb up, fix the pro and come back to the rest.

As the weather is cold, you will use a lot of power to do the pitch, but you are going to be in better condition to climb trad route with other difficulty than a physical movement. 

climb safe   
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apbt1976

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2012, 08:18:20 PM »

I think we should start referring to Champ as Rain Man. His whole internet persona has really become the same thing just swap the mathematics genius for a climbing safety nerd.

Anyone insulted by my analogy i apologize it is just a freaking joke. How many Negative Karma points will this one get me. If i was a sissy i might just delete it. I thought about it but i am laughing at myself way to hard and i just gotta share...

And Champ you do not bother me one bit so please laugh along and take no offense... please!!

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strandman

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2012, 10:22:23 AM »

Something about aid climbing...

Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness
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lucky luke

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2012, 09:57:18 PM »

Something about aid climbing...
Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness

thank you strandman. you keep it positive. In doing aid climbing, I learn my mathematic skill to protect myself as standing on a piece of pro let you thing at the fall and gave you the opportunity to understand why you are or not safe.

Beginer ask some questions about how they should trust there pro. Some climber can do run out of seven or ten feet and be too scary to aid climb. I think that when you aid climb and your pro pop out in front of your nose, you know at least why the pro is not good. Personally, I never know when a protection is good, but if i don't hink that is bad, I can trust it.

At cathedral, on the rappel line from upper refuse ledge, in the corner, there is a line pretty difficult to climb in aid. I think is an A-2 with rp's overhanging situation. never saw people on that one and it was pretty durty. I climbed only the first feet, to the ledge on the left before the final crack. 
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DLottmann

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2012, 10:59:38 PM »

Something about aid climbing...
Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness
At cathedral, on the rappel line from upper refuse ledge, in the corner, there is a line pretty difficult to climb in aid. I think is an A-2 with rp's overhanging situation. never saw people on that one and it was pretty durty. I climbed only the first feet, to the ledge on the left before the final crack.

I think you are thinking of Travesty, I met you in person that day you were on it. And people would know where you were talking about if you said “just left of Lower Refuse/Brown’s Fist”.
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DLottmann

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2012, 11:01:17 PM »

Something about aid climbing...
Given the weather- try Razor Crack at Sundown,  steep, solid A1.. Crack In The Woods...Roofer Madness
Personally, I never know when a protection is good, but if i don't hink that is bad, I can trust it.

Al, why can’t I find in my settings where to change my quote? Please direct me...
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DLottmann

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2012, 11:03:38 PM »

NVM, I found it
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sneoh

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2012, 11:18:46 PM »

Personally, I never know when a protection is good, but if i don't hink that is bad, I can trust it.
Interesting concept and outlook.  Hope your trust is rarely misplaced.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

lucky luke

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2012, 09:02:46 AM »

Personally, I never know when a protection is good, but if i don't think that is bad, I can trust it.
Interesting concept and outlook.  Hope your trust is rarely misplaced.

It is not a very develop concept. In anchor, from john Long I think, he said that the cimetery is full of bomb proof protection. an other concept is the one from a film, Uboat 586, who said: taking decision with approximative data that can be armfull for the crew is part of the skipper work (or some thing like that). so, I evolve in trad with the mentality that there is a risk and I must manage it in the safer way. there is a lot of difference in climbing style between saying I am at a bolt, I am safe and the pro most hold a fall.

When I begun, I was so happy to find a piton to anchor on it safely. But it is not the game, after a while, I found very proud of myself climbing onsight and making sound decision. When I failed, I never say that with artificial way, I will have been able to climb it (bolt for example). I go back to my reading and training ground to come back stronger than I was before. In that way, competition was not a very important goal as we can do dangerous thing when our only goal is to be better than the one a side us.   
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lucky luke

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2012, 09:19:35 AM »

I met you in person that day you were on it. And people would know where you were talking about if you said “just left of Lower Refuse/Brown’s Fist”.

I don't know the name. I think that travesty and brown fist is a little bit farther left. But I don't know. The crack look like very hard to protect and will not be a 5.9 or climbable in free style (i ask you if the crack was protectable even on aid). As a fall can broke your vertebral colon, if some one fall on it, he most place a bolt in the first five feet of the flearing crack.
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strandman

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2012, 10:56:33 AM »

Travesty kinda leans left a bit.. maybe the other very thincrack... I can't remember... it's 13A free though

The BEAST is good aid/free stuff when things are wet

gave you a  champ or this one
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DLottmann

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #11 on: April 29, 2012, 12:54:06 PM »

I met you in person that day you were on it. And people would know where you were talking about if you said “just left of Lower Refuse/Brown’s Fist”.

I don't know the name. I think that travesty and brown fist is a little bit farther left. But I don't know. The crack look like very hard to protect and will not be a 5.9 or climbable in free style (i ask you if the crack was protectable even on aid). As a fall can broke your vertebral colon, if some one fall on it, he most place a bolt in the first five feet of the flearing crack.

Brown’s Fist is just to the right of the thin crack you were looking at. It’s an obvious hand crack through the bigger roof to the immediate left of Refuse. After consulting the guidebook (Webster’s) I’d assume that thin crack you were looking at may be unclimbed.

Be careful with your vertebral colon if you decide to send it :)
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punxnotdead

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2012, 09:00:54 AM »

i always enjoyed aiding molson madness to cathedral direct roof.  fun ,strenuous and all the gear is pretty much in place.
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"climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe" Champoing

strandman

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #13 on: April 30, 2012, 11:33:07 AM »

Sorry Solstice is the one that leans left. Travesty is a very thin A2 with some hooking free at 13A
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lucky luke

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Re: cold weather, aid climbing
« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2012, 09:23:35 AM »

i always enjoyed aiding molson madness to cathedral direct roof.  fun ,strenuous and all the gear is pretty much in place.

Do you recomand that climb for a beginer? I think that bird net at the north end prac tice wall is a better choice for omeone who want to have a great day and train for harder trad line.
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