NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 2 [3]   Go Down

Author Topic: trad is it more sustain than sport?  (Read 2148 times)

Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 764
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #30 on: May 11, 2012, 04:49:12 PM »

"Am I just rambleing now?"  Aren't we all? ???
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4473
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #31 on: May 11, 2012, 05:02:24 PM »

Remember now, a TRUE redpoint is all gear, including draws, place in on push, sport or trad.

At least according to the two guys who coined the term, Gullich and Albert
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1915
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #32 on: May 11, 2012, 05:15:08 PM »

What have you done, Strand?  You probably just set Eric off!  It is one of his pet peeves that the younger gen seems to equate pink-point with red-point.
They are different in my book, and I record the difference; it is a "PP" or "RP". 

It gnarls at me a little when I read so and so did a red-point of a route which I know has perma-draws in place or have been pre-equipped with project draws.
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4473
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #33 on: May 11, 2012, 05:24:16 PM »

Ray Jardine actually was one of the first to "redpoint" after dogging a line... in "76  "All gear must be placed free and on the lead"
Logged

The other tomcat

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 435
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #34 on: May 11, 2012, 07:06:54 PM »

Trad vs, sport of same grade, yes trad is more sustain. Pinkpoint, I don't get that? You already eliminated route finding,gear management and carrying the weight of a rack, and you still can't do it without pre-placed draws?

Ever give thought to what kind of ice you could climb if you rapped down and placed screws every six or seven feet first? We'll keep it burly, so you have to clip the draws yourself...lol...

 Smite me....

edited for f-bombs and such.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2012, 08:37:19 PM by The other tomcat »
Logged
Tom Stryker

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #35 on: May 11, 2012, 07:26:55 PM »

Ever give thought to what kind of ice you could climb if you rapped down and placed screws every six or seven feet first?

Dropline 2013! LOLOLOLOLOLOL
Logged

lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1400
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #36 on: May 11, 2012, 08:16:50 PM »

Ward, you know it does not work that way. Like it or not part of the trad grade is the dificulty of  getting gear in.  A steep sport route may even have harder moves for the same grade and simply not feel as pumpy as a trad rout the same steepness. Even if you have the gear wired it is harder to get placed and clipped than it is to clip bolts.  On sport If the  draws are already hanging it makes it so much easier for me it is at least as good as a letter grade..   you certainly do not have 2 different grades for draws hung  VS hanging draws yet both ascents count. Same thing goes for gear climbs yet with gear it is very rare to pre place the gear so that does not seem to factor in so much..   Am I just rambleing now?

And, if you make an energy budget for the situation, as I did in the first paragraphe, a person can understand that it i easier because you spend less energy to clip the bolt.

In sport I agree that it is evident, but in the case f a traverse or overhang, in trad where you have the energy budget, you can understand that some times it is better to have rope drag to keep the energy low than to make a move and bring your partner in danger.
Logged

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #37 on: May 11, 2012, 08:18:34 PM »

When is my 24 hours up so I can smite you again?
Logged

strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4473
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #38 on: May 11, 2012, 08:36:44 PM »

Cat- i gave you a +
Logged

sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1915
Re: trad is it more sustain than sport?
« Reply #39 on: May 11, 2012, 09:59:45 PM »

Good one, Tom. Nah, I do not think you are going to get smites.
Logged

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ
Pages: 1 2 [3]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.131 seconds with 23 queries.