Trad vs, sport of same grade, yes trad is more sustain. Pinkpoint, I don't get that? You already eliminated route finding,gear management and carrying the weight of a rack, and you still can't do it without pre-placed draws?
Ever give thought to what kind of ice you could climb if you rapped down and placed screws every six or seven feet first? We'll keep it burly, so you have to clip the draws yourself...lol...
Smite me....
edited for f-bombs and such.