Author Topic: Efficient 3 person movement on White Horse Standard Route with 2 half ropes?  (Read 5338 times)

Offline old_school

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Thanks for the props old school.  I do have a bit of history in the field.  I train endurance athletes as well as taught this stuff before moving north and becoming a murse.  Its dorky, but I enjoy teaching and guess that leads to online ramblings when I'm couch-bound.

Keep the ramblings coming and I hope you feel better soon. I had the same thing due to 30+ years playing basketball...I solved it with simple inserts at the ball of the foot...this was after two or three painful cortisone shots that did alleviate some of of the pain, but I found the insterts at the ball of the foot to be the cure. I still have to use them on the court and pavement, but my feet don't hurt stepping out of bed anymore. My climbing shoes have gotten bigger as well...that seemed to help quite a bit too! hope you feel better and are able to get back out there soon. Good weather on the way!!

~grammy
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline lucky luke

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The energy in the muscle is burn in 45 minutes. after you have to take a rest for the liver to bring more energy to the muscle (it is a vulgarisation).

Wow, we never covered this concept in my coursework.  Somebody should tell all the marathon runners this, even bike racers that spend 5+ hours racing that they are feats that defy the laws of physics and chemistry.

Hobbsj, as you can see in your critics of my knowledge, you discredited my reputation by throwing medical and physical advice. I made a vulgarisation of a very complex system and gave you proof that I know my theory.

It is happening often that people critics old far climber that know deeply how to climb but didn't know how to defend themselve on a forum. For you making a vulgarisation of a complex theory is a pain in the rear, for a trad climber to be insult because we say in simple terms a complex theory...how do you call that?

I am a climber. I protect the life of my partner and bring them to be safer. I agree that mistake is part of the game and try to bring some information to avoid it. whatever the biological body reaction, I still maintain that after 45 minutes of climbing in trad a person begin to loose is concentration and begin to make more mistake A think that you don't argue. if you don't say that my vulgarisation is false, you just descredited me for no reason. It is not really friendly.

DLottmann

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champ just killed his positive karma streak he was on with me

DGoguen

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Use the two ropes and have your seconds simulclimb...saves a ton of time!  ;)
I would say the question was wrapped up with the first response.
The continuing proctology is getting painful.

Offline sneoh

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The next question is whether the leader is doomed if one or both seconds take more than 45 minutes to follow the pitch! :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ


Offline lucky luke

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The next question is whether the leader is doomed if one or both seconds take more than 45 minutes to follow the pitch! :)

A+

Offline punxnotdead

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Jumping Jesus on a pogo stick! I just read/skimmed through all the postings on this topic. I am now going to create a Rube Goldberg device to kick me in the nuts for all the time wasted after the first response......... UGH!
someone dropped a steamer in the gene pool

"climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe" Champoing

Offline lucky luke

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Use the two ropes and have your seconds simulclimb...saves a ton of time!  ;)
I would say the question was wrapped up with the first response.
The continuing proctology is getting painful.

superficial advice: take two rope and do that. He will go to knife blade tower and take to skiny rope and...oops is death, the rope cut. it is what I dislike about some sport climber (not all)

what is the question? My concern is that managing 3 ropes on every pitch is going to get messy, be really heavy, back-up the route and potentially expose us to more objective hazards because it will likely add significant time to the climb.

So he talk about three rope and time to climb. He make a good research and bring the discussion to the level about a safety question of the rope rating and his manipulation. Even if I dislike the way hbbsj wrote his mail, he or she can have ask a question making me in trouble to explain it instead of saying that I am wrong and he is good, at least, he brought some thing to have a deep knowledge of climbing.

climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe.

DGoguen

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superficial advice: take two rope and do that. He will go to knife blade tower and take to skiny rope and...oops is death, the rope cut. it is what I dislike about some sport climber (not all)
what is the question?
As the Subject title illustrates, the question is specific to Standard Whitehorse. The advice to use the double ropes for your seconds is not superficial. I can't speak for "old school" but I bet he wouldn't reccommend it for beginners on The Last Unicorn, a couple of hundred yards left, let alone Knife Blade Tower, oops is death. It has absolutely nothing to do with sport climbing.
I have a feeling you would think any advice or discussion to be superficial short of thesis level analysis.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 09:10:32 AM by DGoguen »

DLottmann

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Champ is quickly approaching the century mark huh? I wonder what will happen...

Offline sneoh

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Kaboom! :)
Seriously, get out and climb today.  Man, does it look nice out!
I have to host my kid's 6th birthday party mid-day.  No climbing for me today. :(:(

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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I bet your kid doesn't need 45 minutes for the cake !!!!

Offline sneoh

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No, luckily not.  15 minutes, maybe?  And that included the singing and blowing out of candles.
We have quite a bit of leftover cake though; 1/4 sheet was too skimpy and 1/2 sheet (which we got) was too much ..... I now have half of leftover in the fridge and half in the freezer.  I have a tough time throwing out food even when it is BAD for me to eat it!:)


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Admin Al

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I have a tough time throwing out food even when it is BAD for me to eat it!:)

I know that feeling...
Al Hospers
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