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Author Topic: fixe gear  (Read 858 times)

strandman

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fixe gear
« on: May 14, 2012, 07:33:09 PM »

We just did a major retro anchor, bolting and chain rehab at Penitente , here in CO and i must say the Fixe stuff is great. BIG bolts, thick chains and such.
If you ever need to do up a route, this is your gear.  YES glue-ins as well.
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the_other_andy

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2012, 09:25:41 PM »

yeah, 2 thumbs up for sure
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M_Sprague

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2012, 10:03:48 PM »

They do use nice materials. I usually use their nice beefy stainless hangers. I have issues with some of their anchor designs though.They often come down to one single ring (strong as it may be). I like to stick with the ol' redundancy rule, unlike the Euros it seems. They also often require an expensive replacement of the whole contraption if one part is worn too, so I usually make my own anchors using the Fixe hangers (or glue-ins), then two fatty quicklinks on each one or a quicklink and a SS Fixe ring. I wish the Fixe quicklinks were a little bigger gauge.

Thanks for reminding me to order more hangers, John.  :)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2012, 10:15:16 PM »

I am not a big fan of any of the  more involved pre made anchor setups. Espicialy do not like the  big easy clip things..  way too big visually and promote stupidity.  I do like the fixe single ring  anchor.The Ramur version is comperable. Also like  metelious  rap hanger on 1/2 in 5 piece or 2 quick links on standard bolt hanger. Everything painted primer grey.
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sneoh

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2012, 10:17:18 PM »

Man, you guys DO know how to celebrate after - sushi and beer in a gazebo? 
Here are some pics of the old stuff -
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/penitente-canyon-anchor-replacement--trail-repair-weekend-public-event-/107467219__4

Those "drop in" bolts are freaking scary looking.  Glad those got replaced.

I did not see it at their website but does Fixe make an anchor system that consists of two bolts, two hangers, two cables attached to a single ring?  There are quite a few of these at Muir Valley down in KY.  I do not like them as much.

P.S. Trad, you are correct - metelious  rap hanger on 1/2 in 5 piece painted grey or dirt color is the least visible, lowest 'profile' anchor I have ever seen.  Too bad too many do a TR directly through them!  I still miss the ones which were up on Masterpiece that had to be replaced because of abuse and/or ignorance.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2012, 10:22:07 PM by sneoh »
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M_Sprague

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2012, 10:46:20 PM »

Those Metolius Rap Hangers are harder to pull  the rope through and trash it compared to half inch quicklinks or the big SS Fixe rings. I also like to be able to clip in to the hangers or top quicklink without pinching the rope in the lower one.
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sneoh

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2012, 11:20:50 PM »

Good points, Mark.  It is tricky to thread the rope thru the Rap Anchors while directly anchored to them.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2012, 07:52:39 AM »

The advantages of the metelious rap hangers. Super discrete, super burly, cheaper than Fixe ring anchors, never wear out. Same rope bearing surface of 5/16th quick link. Disadvantages, not as user friendly @ hanging belays for # of biners in hanger and still be able to fit the rope in there but still totally manageable for anyone who is not a complete sport weinie. Slightly more wear on the rope when loweing but still negligable. pulls slightly harder but that keeps you warm.   I do prefer the Fixe single rings painted grey for medium use discreteness.  Quick links or metelious rap hangers for high use. the quick links you can replace. the metelious  rap hangers never wear out?   Anyone seen one wear through?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2012, 08:15:04 AM »

Ok so I see up thread they do wear out. I guess anything can wear out @ Rumny.
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sneoh

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2012, 08:42:14 AM »

Not just Rumney, Trad.  See the pics taken at Peni at mp.com link. They can take a beating but still wear out over time with misuse.  I never understood why people would do a direct TR through the Rap Anchors.  Doing so puts an awful lot of kinks and twists into the rope.  There is a reason why they are called rap anchors :)
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strandman

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2012, 11:09:39 AM »

YA- the rap anchors that gone worn by people tr'ing through them kinda shocked me... shit, there was so much drag, you could hip belay. That's some serious wear on a really beefy bit of gear.
i tried to use the Valley analogy of "if it's fixed , it's A1"  BUT AS A JOKE and some folks thought the same about lowering set ups.
Later on i ripped apart one of the  chains with my bumper off a 5/16" buttonhead... that freaked some people.
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Jeff

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2012, 12:16:57 PM »

John, thanks to all who were there for the work at Penitente; I was only there one morning (it started to rain hard after we'd done 3 routes) in Sept '09, but found it appealing and certainly want to get back there, and to 11 Mile Canyon which I visited for a fabulous day during the same CO trip, while visiting friends in Salida. Viewing the stuff that was removed from Penitente in the photos from Mountain Project certainly underlines the dangers of TR ing on fixed gear! Yet I still see people doing just that at Rumney and on rap anchors in the Gunks :-[
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strandman

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2012, 08:00:01 PM »

Wetalked about 11 mile and shelf- what  aproject  shelf has 1,200 lines.
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strandman

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Re: fixe gear
« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2012, 07:35:16 PM »

Did some rawl/powers 3/8" x 2.25'in granite (nice) today.  Super secure. 4,800 lbs. the rock
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