Author Topic: Recompense Chimney  (Read 1826 times)

Offline apbt1976

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Recompense Chimney
« on: May 24, 2012, 09:33:51 PM »
What is the largest piece or pieces of gear needed for this route?

Thanks again!


Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2012, 09:38:25 PM »
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2

Offline apbt1976

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2012, 10:11:00 PM »
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2

What way would you suggest?

So a rack with two sets of cams 00-3.5 and nuts 1-10 should more than do the trick?

Thanks just wanna make sure we got everything we need.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2012, 06:38:51 AM »
Single set of cams to 3" but 2 Green camalots and 2 yellow aliens.  doubble set of stoppers from #3 to #8  single set of stoppers #9 to #13 is my prefered cathedral rack.  beast flake is more exciteing by far. the move onto it is thrilling and the move back into the chimny is interesting.

Offline meclimber

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2012, 08:03:57 AM »
#2 for the chimney

If you want to do the route, do the route.  But...the better (more spectacular imop) is the beast flake.  I remember the first time doing the flake, not so much with the chimney.
Jon Howard

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2012, 08:19:02 AM »
#2 for the chimney

If you want to do the route, do the route.  But...the better (more spectacular imop) is the beast flake.  I remember the first time doing the flake, not so much with the chimney.

+1 for the flake.
You end up doing the crux in the chimney anyway after you exit the flake and get back into the regular route.
Most people link the flake and upper chimney together, but your first time it may be worth belaying on top of the flake. Just don't stare at the flake too long as you sit there, you will start to imagine it cleaving off in a spectacular if not dramatic demise.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2012, 08:40:14 AM »
You are going to finish the route to the top and walk off, right?
If so, wear a helmet cam on P3 (the inside corner) and record your ascent.
Strand might want a copy of that (it is rumored that he has never climbed P3)!



"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2012, 03:18:46 PM »
If you do the beast Flake #3 is helpfull in several places. Chimny without beastflake Gold#2

What way would you suggest?

So a rack with two sets of cams 00-3.5 and nuts 1-10 should more than do the trick?

Thanks just wanna make sure we got everything we need.

Beast Flake for sure... SO much much better.

Offline tradchick

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2012, 05:48:16 PM »
I'm with everyone else.  Do the flake, it's spectacular!  But like someone else said, if you're belaying from the top of the flake, try not to notice that it looks like it's coming off any minute.

After the last pitch of Recompense, you can traverse out right and get on the last pitch of the Prow to finish.

DLottmann

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2012, 07:03:54 PM »
After the last pitch of Recompense, you can traverse out right and get on the last pitch of the Prow to finish.

Or go straight up Lookout Crack, 5.9, directly above the last pitch of Recompense, and a nice direct finish to the line...

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2012, 08:39:53 PM »
that thing is gross. Hurts your fingers. the Prow finish is 100 times more fun ;)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2012, 10:38:08 PM »
last pitch of The Prow is highly recommended!
Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2012, 07:21:24 AM »
that thing is gross. Hurts your fingers. the Prow finish is 100 times more fun ;)

A agree, except you gotta add a slightly awkward mini-pitch to get set-up for it. Commando is fun too IMO, but the last pitch of the Prow is the only 3 star finish...

Offline strandman

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #13 on: May 26, 2012, 09:40:08 AM »
Isn't John Turners original finish to the last pitch now Commando Run ????

DLottmann

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Re: Recompense Chimney
« Reply #14 on: May 26, 2012, 09:24:55 PM »
Dunno, but cleaner than it looks...