Author Topic: Tres Agujeros - End of Days  (Read 922 times)

Offline WanderlustMD

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Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« on: May 28, 2012, 11:05:35 PM »
Tres Agujeros (5.12) - End of Days
FA: Matt Desenberg & Chris Magness 5/27/12

New line between End of Days and Fingerlust (Jerry's route). The route follows three bolts straight up the face to big horizontal and a ledge, then continues straight up and slightly left past some pockets and two more bolts to anchors. Start by clipping the first bolt off the small pedestal at the base (stick clip may be necessary) and do a boulder problem using sharp crimps and small feet to a good flake/finger lock. Make a move off of this to clip the second bolt, then do another boulder problem to a decent sloper up and right. Another move or two lead to a good hold and the third bolt on the left

You can get a no-hands rest in the slot, then continue up to the fourth bolt. Some good feet and a sidepull lead to the last bolt, from which you follow several pockets to the anchor. A sneaky highstep out right can take the sting out this section. Depending on how pumped you are, it may be easier to top out the route, then clip the chains...

Note: Shorter people might want to prehang draws on the first three bolts to make the clips a bit easier, particularly at the second bolt. Do this by climbing end of days and swinging over while lowering. Also, use a long sling on the third bolt!

The difficulty may be height dependent (I'm tall), especially around the second bolt. Feedback?

-Matt

« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 11:09:23 PM by WanderlustMD »

Offline old_school

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2012, 10:33:17 AM »
Nice work boys! Beat me to it, but it looks like it is an excellent line.
Looking forward to jumping on it in a month or two, when the shoulder feels a bit stronger! 
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline David_G48

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2012, 11:37:41 AM »
Nice accomplishment for the long weekend! Matt and Chris nice to see hard lines go up, keeps our area alive and well.
David

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2012, 01:53:05 PM »
This is on the craglet to the left of Cathedral?
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline WanderlustMD

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2012, 02:04:39 PM »
This is on the craglet to the left of Cathedral?

Yep, the crag is in the new book (our route isn't)

Offline meclimber

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2012, 03:49:47 PM »
i figured chris needed a hand with the FA. :)
Jon Howard

Offline nuts

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2012, 06:11:21 PM »
i figured chris needed a hand with the FA. :)

I fell of twice finishing the crux, it'll go.

I'll call you next time I find a nice 5.6..

« Last Edit: May 29, 2012, 06:16:58 PM by nuts »
Chris Magness

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2012, 09:37:31 PM »
I've got one all bolted out at Green's for you guys.   Well, it needs one more plopped in it's hole and it might be 5.7. I was going to bolt it free solo, but I figured it would be pretty embarrassing to die on it after slipping on rock dust and then rotting at the base a couple months before anybody found me.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline strandman

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2012, 09:28:17 AM »
The bears would be on you before nightfall    :)

Offline old_school

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2012, 12:17:11 PM »
The bears would be on you before nightfall    :)

I hear the moose out there are meat eaters too!  :P
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline meclimber

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2012, 12:37:29 PM »
even with the edit, that was the best zinger you came up with.  No wonder matty took that thing to the top!
Jon Howard

Offline Jeff

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Re: Tres Agujeros - End of Days
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2012, 03:54:55 PM »
Matt D admits he's tall--now there's a bulletin :-\