Tres Agujeros (5.12) - End of Days
FA: Matt Desenberg & Chris Magness 5/27/12
New line between End of Days and Fingerlust (Jerry's route). The route follows three bolts straight up the face to big horizontal and a ledge, then continues straight up and slightly left past some pockets and two more bolts to anchors. Start by clipping the first bolt off the small pedestal at the base (stick clip may be necessary) and do a boulder problem using sharp crimps and small feet to a good flake/finger lock. Make a move off of this to clip the second bolt, then do another boulder problem to a decent sloper up and right. Another move or two lead to a good hold and the third bolt on the left
You can get a no-hands rest in the slot, then continue up to the fourth bolt. Some good feet and a sidepull lead to the last bolt, from which you follow several pockets to the anchor. A sneaky highstep out right can take the sting out this section. Depending on how pumped you are, it may be easier to top out the route, then clip the chains...
Note: Shorter people might want to prehang draws on the first three bolts to make the clips a bit easier, particularly at the second bolt. Do this by climbing end of days and swinging over while lowering. Also, use a long sling on the third bolt!
The difficulty may be height dependent (I'm tall), especially around the second bolt. Feedback?
-Matt
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Topic: Tres Agujeros - End of Days (Read 459 times)