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Dyneema question?

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In a self rescue situation(your second is injured) is it safe to use dyneema to tie a friction hitch on the rope?

I think nylon is the way to go.  I was taught, about 6 or 8  years ago, that dyneema doesn't do well due to the friction and sliding.  As a result nylon is on most of my alpine draws (that and the fact it was cheap and I'm still not rolling in enough cash to upgrade).  That being said, materials have come a long way and I can't say compared to the stuff that's out there now.  I'm sure others have contradicting data with such and such.  But to keep it simple, I just use nylon rather than trying to keep up with all the new developments.


--- Quote from: hobbsj on June 07, 2012, 08:07:30 am --- But to keep it simple, I just use nylon rather than trying to keep up with all the new developments.

--- End quote ---
+1.  Simple, if it serves the purpose on hand, is, to me, always preferable.  Oh yeah, I have reverted back to Nylon.

Dyneema slings work great for prussiking as the thinner diameter “bites” really well on the rope. The issue of concern is it has a lower melting point than nylon. This should not be an issue on a properly tied, tested, and used prussik, as the rope should never run fast enough through it to melt/damage it. It’s slightly irrational to worry about it because it means you not addressing the true concern, a poorly tied friction hitch. Same mindset behind using a “back-up knot” for a re-traced figure eight knot.

That all being said, I find it better SOP to always carry 2 7mm nylon prussik cords tied with double fisherman knots, slightly different lengths. That, combined with one un-used 16 foot cordelette on the back loop of your harness will solve 99% of the leader/second rescue scenarios you can encounter and is a standard part of my “kit”.

If you need to use a dyneema sling, it is not considered “incorrect” in the industry, just be mindful of the low melting point.

Sound advice DMan!  +++1


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