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Author Topic: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.  (Read 1123 times)

Joe_Re

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So, a co-worker want's me to take him out climbing and wants me to lead something (on gear) so he can follow and see real placed gear.  He has, as far as I can tell, never seconded a trad climb before.   He leads sport and boulders harder than me so I'm not concerned about physical strength.  I want him to have fun on a moderate so he can take it easy and focus on seeing gear placements and anchors.  I've never done Pinnicle, but at 5.7 or so it seems that would be a good choice.  Are there good belay ledges which are "comfy" for two climbers?  I'd be happy to summit Washington out of the deal too.

Thanks,
Joe.
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"Men hang out signs indicative of their respective trades: shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; a jewler a monster watch; and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but in the Franconia Mountains of New Hampshire god almighty has hung out a sign to say in New England he makes men".
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lucky luke

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2012, 11:17:41 PM »

So, a co-worker want's me to take him out climbing and wants me to lead something (on gear) so he can follow and see real placed gear.  He has, as far as I can tell, never seconded a trad climb before.   He leads sport and boulders harder than me so I'm not concerned about physical strength.  I want him to have fun on a moderate so he can take it easy and focus on seeing gear placements and anchors.  I've never done Pinnicle, but at 5.7 or so it seems that would be a good choice.  Are there good belay ledges which are "comfy" for two climbers?  I'd be happy to summit Washington out of the deal too.

Thanks,
Joe.

The 5.7 have good ledge. I suggest you to follow the arrete to the big bulge and go to the left after. The 5.8 look easier for me, but I did it in a huge shower. I stoped in the pitch because I can't see the next move. I never did the chimney, even if I try it ounce. It was wet and I wasn't in a mood to risk a move on a slab. Look nice, I want to try it again.

the 5.9 is a better choice, but the crux is hard to protect with a chance to fall on your hips. For a rescue, think at 5 or 8 hours  at least. After that, it is easy alpine to protect, but still good move to do. have fun     
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DLottmann

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2012, 08:35:10 AM »

How much do you like the co-worker? A Mount Washington day can get long with the approach and descent.

For a first trad climb I’d recommend more accessible routes like Thin Air, Funhouse, Upper Refuse, Sliding Board etc. You could get in way more pitches and gear placements spending a day at Cathedral rather than hiking 3 hours to the base of Pinnacle. There are tons of cracks at the North End at ground level where you can round out the day showing him how to place some of the gear in the cracks.

So unless you’re trying to personally tick Pinnacle I think Cathedral would be a better day for 1st trad day.
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fresh

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2012, 10:43:50 AM »

Pinnacle would be awesome. such a cool setting, beautiful views. Paul has taken tons of newbies up Pinnacle without any problem. the main thing to be careful about is being able to communicate--there are some places where you won't be able to see each other. I recommend taking the 5.8 direct variation on the 5th pitch, but it could be helpful to build a belay right on top of it so you can see your second. for the first pitch, you're better off building a belay right after the dike, that way you won't have so much rope drag.

if it takes you 3 hours to get to Pinnacle you're in rough shape, but then again your friend is a boulderer...

Reggie
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strandman

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2012, 10:55:26 AM »

Make your friend pay for the auto road.... and the beers
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DLottmann

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2012, 04:14:05 PM »

Pinnacle is awesome, but if the goal is for him to see copious amounts of gear placements in one day there are better places... You can climb Pinnacle with a very light trad rack as there are lots of nice old pins to clip, and few places you would fall.

TBH the “regular” route is mostly 5.4ish with occasional 5.7 moves... no where near Whitney Gilman in terms of difficulty. It’s also quite ledgy so you really wouldn’t want to fall anywhere...

I’ve taken to climbing the whole route in approach shoes, as the climbing is never so technical to need rock shoes, unless you do the 5.8 variation, then I put rock shoes on for 1 pitch...
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lucky luke

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2012, 06:23:07 PM »

if it takes you 3 hours to get to Pinnacle you're in rough shape, but then again your friend is a boulderer...

Reggie

More two hours or an hour and a half, going to the top to see the train and going down by tuckerman is very doable in one day.

 
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Joe_Re

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2012, 08:01:26 AM »

Yeah, so I'd be lying if I said I wasn't looking at pinnacle a little bit for me too.  I do love the setting and I've been up and down Washington enough times (rain, snow, warm, cold, sunny, can't see) that I'm not concerned about time or which trail to use.  I've thought about some of the routes I've been on, Standard on WH, Funhouse (finished on the Book), the WG ridge which is what I really want to take him up.  I'm just not comfortable teaching someone on Cannon.  I don't know why so don't ask, Cannon just makes me feel small.

Would Pinnicle be a poor choice or is it as you said Dave, Cathedral has a more opportunities closer together, easy approch/descent etc.

I guess it may come down to seeing what the day feels like on the way up.
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"Men hang out signs indicative of their respective trades: shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; a jewler a monster watch; and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but in the Franconia Mountains of New Hampshire god almighty has hung out a sign to say in New England he makes men".
Daniel Webster 18?

lucky luke

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2012, 09:32:18 AM »

I have the impression to play in an episode of Father Knows Best!!!
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SA

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2012, 07:39:47 PM »

I guess you have to decide which is more important- you climbing pinnacle or your partner seeing multiple gear placements. In all honesty; doing Funhouse and finishing by doing Nutcracker or the Book of S. would show him more gear placements than doing the entire Pinnacle climb.

I did the Book and Nutcracker today with my daughter and she had some interesting( frustrating), moments, taking some of my nut placements out.
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steveclimbs

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2012, 10:39:41 PM »

Inferno is a great one for him to see gear.  My third ever climb, and one of my favorites.  Plus if you go on a friday evening, they have a seafood buffet in the white mountain Hotel.
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Admin Al

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2012, 11:50:50 AM »

Plus if you go on a friday evening, they have a seafood buffet in the white mountain Hotel.

yeah...showing up there after a day of climbing will go over really well! [grin]
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DLottmann

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2012, 01:21:02 PM »

Plus if you go on a friday evening, they have a seafood buffet in the white mountain Hotel.

yeah...showing up there after a day of climbing will go over really well! [grin]

pffftttt... it’s not that fancy.... just wash the chalk and blood off your hands in the bathroom and grab a seat at the bar!
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lucky luke

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #13 on: June 26, 2012, 11:41:18 AM »

It's raining, I am inside and I am hungry

follower means: A person who moves or travels behind someone or something

second is: Constituting number two in a sequence; coming after the first in time or order; 2nd.

As a second climb with a leader, as they hold the rope and stop a fall, as he encourage and help the leader...as he must know what to do in case of leader injury....a second is not just a person who moves behind someone. 

When you can change the second by a grigri...maybe you can talk of a follower, but it is not the case in trad.
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ridgerunner

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Re: New follower? I don't know what the hell to title this thread.
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2012, 02:09:25 PM »

Whenever at work I need a mental pause, I come here for information and...amusement. It works all the time !
:-)
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