Author Topic: other peoples' whippers  (Read 1330 times)

Offline strandman

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other peoples' whippers
« on: June 21, 2012, 05:10:33 PM »
It's cool watching other people fall off, esp if you are done climbing and have a beer in hand. It's REALLY cool if it's a route you just cruised !!!

right after the f/a of Clean Sweep, we almost got this reversed on us. John Bouchard was atop the prow watching us and was ready togo.. he WALKED it.. The next party,  quickly moved in for the third ascent and didn't do so well. The leader fell at the first bolt .. and at the second and.. bailed...good idea.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2012, 06:14:10 PM »
It's cool watching other people fall off, esp if you are done climbing and have a beer in hand. It's REALLY cool if it's a route you just cruised !!!

Actually, the trees are to high, we can not see the climber easily. Maybe we must bring the place, where we can saw the cliff, closer to the action???


Offline sneoh

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2012, 06:27:44 PM »
I remember watching climbers on Camber and RC from the top with my friend Leo after we were done for the day.  Never saw anything dramatic.  Then one time we thought someone was going to for Tourist Treat but alas, no.  He either thought better of that or was just confused in the first place.

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Offline pappy

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2012, 10:03:10 PM »
The first time I went to El Dorado I had a list of a dozen classics I wanted to get on, but this was the mid-80s, sport climbing was unknown, and it was an extremely crowded place. All twelve routes had parties on them. So we poked around and found an unoccupied crack on the Bastille (Blind Faith, 5.9+ then, 5.10 now. I love how climbs get harder as they age).
Just as I'm racking up a pair of extremely buff women come up. They are somewhat put out to find someone about to get on the route, and the leader starts badgering me: 'Do you know what you're getting on?'
'Uh no, but it looks good.'
'It's pretty hard. Are you sure you want to get on this?'
Well now I am, and I manage to cruise P1, even though under the hostile glare of a pretty woman I got pretty discombobulated and left the long slings on the ground, creating some noxious rope drag at the crux, so a bit of a spectacle and I'm sure grist for the bitching the two women are doing while they wait.
While I'm belaying Jeff on P2, I hear the leader on P1. The crux is an overhanging hand crack near the top that spits you out on a little slab just before the anchors, so I can't see anything, but I can hear her really puffing on the crack. Then her head pops up and she's scrabbling at the slab, and all of a sudden her eyes get as big as plates, and with an expression of abject terror  and a loud shriek she slides backwards and disappears.
Needless to say, I laughed my ass off, which probably ruined any chance I had with her, but what the hell I was married anyway.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline strandman

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2012, 10:52:31 PM »
Cut those trees down.. it's  NH tradition.

Budapest is  good one.. i don't know how it is now but there was a great view of the last 20' (Crux) fron the drinking boulder.

EVERYONE falls at the end of Budapest   

Offline Admin Al

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2012, 11:58:45 AM »
great story Pappy...
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Offline eyebolter

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2012, 05:14:30 PM »
(Blind Faith, 5.9+ then, 5.10 now. I love how climbs get harder as they age).


Topic for a whole new thread, but my first guidebook had Recompense at 5.9 and Recluse at 5.9+.  I think that the current grade inflation of Recluse has been well deserved, it took me a long time after onsighting Recluse to get that one free!   And I thew the rope over the tree to make it even more of a pansy ass ascent.

Clearly there has been some grade inflation, but the original grades were all over the place and included plenty of stiff 11's that were originally rated "5.9."


Offline strandman

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2012, 07:41:13 PM »
What do you mean pansy ass !!! That's how Coach Niland showed me Recluse

Offline lucky luke

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2012, 07:50:56 PM »
Cut those trees down.. it's  NH tradition.

Lots of tourist there too. If they manage the top for them, why thsy can't manage the bottom for all the community???

Great story, pappy1

Offline eyebolter

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2012, 07:51:35 PM »
What do you mean pansy ass !!! That's how Coach Niland showed me Recluse

That is how I was shown it as well.  Barber led it without TRing off the tree (there are photos), so I'm justified in calling it a pansy-ass ascent.  Still it took me years to do it.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2012, 08:32:36 PM by eyebolter »

Offline kenreville

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2012, 09:37:35 PM »
Cut those trees down.. it's  NH tradition.

Budapest is  good one.. i don't know how it is now but there was a great view of the last 20' (Crux) fron the drinking boulder.

EVERYONE falls at the end of Budapest
   

Yhep. Pretty much guaranteed.

Offline strandman

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2012, 01:49:25 PM »
henry won a sixer for the ffa of Recluse.. not bad, the first 11 on Cathedral.

remember Budapest was originally 10+  now THAT'S a sandbag.. Ed told me it was "easier than Airation""  right

Offline Jeff

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2012, 11:07:00 PM »
A classic whipper story from about 1975-- late Sunday afternoon, group of the usual locals and weekenders standing around drinking malt beverages on the road below Recompense on Cathedral; Ed Sklar had a spotting scope on a tripod and all were taking turns watching a leader trying to get over the crux of the top corner where the layback goes from overhanging to just vertical; the poor guy melted off about 4 times, hung, lowered and went at it again; finally he must have decided "F#*k, I'll grab the sling"; as he did so, Ed's voice rang out from the road "Get your hand off that fecking carabiner!!"--he let go, fell again and eventually rappelled back down; we never knew who he was or if he ever went back. Sklar roared with laughter; he was the same "Yogi Sklarananda" whose quote " Climbing may be hard, but it's easier than growing up!" adorned T-shirts sold for years at IME. 8)
« Last Edit: July 05, 2012, 11:09:33 PM by Jeff »

Offline apbt1976

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #13 on: July 05, 2012, 11:27:12 PM »
A classic whipper story from about 1975-- late Sunday afternoon, group of the usual locals and weekenders standing around drinking malt beverages on the road below Recompense on Cathedral; Ed Sklar had a spotting scope on a tripod and all were taking turns watching a leader trying to get over the crux of the top corner where the layback goes from overhanging to just vertical; the poor guy melted off about 4 times, hung, lowered and went at it again; finally he must have decided "F#*k, I'll grab the sling"; as he did so, Ed's voice rang out from the road "Get your hand off that fecking carabiner!!"--he let go, fell again and eventually rappelled back down; we never knew who he was or if he ever went back. Sklar roared with laughter; he was the same "Yogi Sklarananda" whose quote " Climbing may be hard, but it's easier than growing up!" adorned T-shirts sold for years at IME. 8)

Where can i get one of those t-shits. Truest statement i read on the internet all day....

Offline Maxsuffering

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Re: other peoples' whippers
« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2012, 07:25:08 AM »
I'll through in one. Five or six years ago my buddy and I were at the Thin Air face. I'd never done Windfall and as we were racking up at the base we started talking to a dude belaying his partner on the first section of Standard route. This guy was a hardcore local, we know because he told us so... "just hang'n out for the summer while I'm off from school and wrapping up the last of the classics, brah." This kid was a real piece of work and giving out some serious attitude for a kid who I doubt was old enough to buy beer. I think he told us about every 5.9 he'd done that summer complete with full beta as he quizzed us about our resumes.

His partner sets up a belay below Toe Crack and he is now thankfully out of our hair. He starts up the crack huffing and puffing, grabbing the edge of the crack and doing some weird looking laybacks. A little over halfway the real fun starts... "I don't know dude this thing is way funky... I don't like this piece... watch me... WATCH ME!" His voice rising in pitch every time he says speaks. And then he's off for an arm flailing whipper complete with a shriek that might have been a little overdone for a ten footer. I started laughing so hard I almost fell off myself.

Seriously though if you want to see some great whippers I've got two words for you: Spiders Web! Drop, Fly... Fear and Loathing... Only Entertainment... I've seen plenty of whippers heardbreakingly close to success.