Author Topic: Retread 5.7+ Humphrey's Ledge  (Read 1195 times)

Offline David_G48

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Retread 5.7+ Humphrey's Ledge
« on: August 09, 2014, 03:03:02 PM »
Retread 5.7+ 100' Humphrey's Ledge (Geriatric Wall)

This route lies on the very end of the right side of the Geriatric Wall, 17 feet right of "Easy as Instant Pudding Pie". It begins right above a rather nice flat rock that can be used to sit on while tying up your rock shoes.
Climb up the slab past 1 bolt for 22' to a ledge with an Oak Tree approx. 9" in diameter either sling the tree and continue or bring your partner up and belay from the tree. Continue up the slab past one bolt to a head wall that is approx. 5 1/2 feet tall and clip the bolt at the top. Continue up and slightly right to one more bolt then up to the top to a 2 bolt anchor.

Gear: Small to medium cams. Full set of nuts along with pink to brown tricams are useful.
Rap from the anchors with a 60 meter rope which barely get you down to the start.
FRA (first recorded ascent): George Hurley, David Giampietro, Mike Kahn....... August 2014
This route combines slab and face climbing.
Give it a try and let us know what you think.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2014, 07:02:57 AM by David_G48 »

Offline Jeff

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Re: Retread 5.8 Humphrey's Ledge
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2014, 10:12:19 PM »
David, I led this with my friend Anne P. yesterday afternoon; agree with the grade, but it's no "giveaway"; found it still quite dirty, which should improve with traffic, rock a bit fragile in places, definitely NOT a sport route--without the recommended gear list (at least the cams) it would be really necky. It kept our interest and we enjoyed it!! Thanks for the addition.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Retread 5.7+ Humphrey's Ledge
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2014, 10:33:04 PM »
I led this route with Brad today. While it is nice in many places, some of the holds seem rather fragile to me. In addition the route description doesn't make it clear whether you stay right at the top, or step out left onto the clean face. Since going straight up is basically 40' of unprotected 5.6, seems to follow the line of Let Them Eat Cake and the face to the left is nice with a few places for gear, hopefully that is the correct choice. If you do go left onto the face, a bolt right on the arete would make for some nice climbing. Regardless bring some small pieces for some slots, it's hardly a sport route!
Al Hospers
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