General > New Rock Routes

Mt Willard-Gulley #1 buttress

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Smear:
I have been changing out old 1/4 inch bolts on a couple of todd swain routes(Land Ahoy 5.8 and Ground Zero 5.8+) on the slab below the Gulley #1 ice climb and have put up a couple of new routes in the process.This is a nice spot to climb on good rock.Enjoy!

Hatties Garden 5.8-   Bob Ahearn and Nick Dukehart-May 2012

Description :
The climb is located on the Gully #1 buttress below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.Fun climb with interesting moves on nice rock.The crux is at the first bolt but the first gear is about 20 ft up so there is a bit of an entrance fee but not too hard to get to.

Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.

Location :
To find the Gully#1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between the two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden on the tracks(10 min).Turn right and follow tracks for 2 minutes,cross a small drainage in the tracks and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Look for an obvious flake/arch(life By the Tracks)which forms the left side of the "rainbow"weakness.Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness.Rappell with two ropes or with one 60m down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left,then down and left to start of that climb.

Protection :
Gear from .4 to #3.5 Camalot for the moves before the first bolt.Then four draws to two bolt rap anchor on Land Ahoy.

Part the Sea-5.6-  Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham-May 2012

Description 
Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor.

Location 
The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned off line through a "sea " of lichen.
To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).

Protection 
Standard rack to 3.5 inches.Don't forget the Tricams!The climb can seem runout just below the anchor if you don't find the small cam placement inside one of the crystal pockets near the top.

Life By the Tracks-5.8-  Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham-May 2012

Description 
This a variation start to Todd Swain's route Land Ahoy(Websters 87' guidebook)Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow"arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch.Protect,then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy.Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.Swains route starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch.climb straight up the face(5.7r) to the top of the arch,protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.

Location 
The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for 2 minuts,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Protection 
Standard rack to 3 inches.double on #1 and .75 camalot size may be helpful.Two bolts on the upper part of Land Ahoy to a two bolt rap anchor.All old bolts have been upgraded in 2012.









David_G48:
Smear
Thanks for the update. Now, I just need the guided tour being an illiterate that can not follow written descriptions.
Good Work!

old_school:
They are really great routes David. You will like them...great quality rock.
~g

David_G48:
I'm sure that I will enjoy them.
Funny I was at EMS the other day and asked if Smear still worked there as I had not seen him at the store for a while and they too were wondering when he would be back as they needed the inspiring ambience that he creates. Way to go Smear! Always nice to know when you are missed.
David

old_school:
Sales at EMS have dropped 35% due to his absence... ;)

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