"On the later edition, it is more a story book on a co-worker bringing his friend on the mountain using good procedure in perfect condition. Dman have that approach and I have the other, the reason of our conflict.”
What EXACTLY do you mean by this? What is my approach?
You give very good advice, tell them to avoid the danger by not climbing when it is windy or chances of rain, tye in when there is a risk of fall, etc...Those who made the six, seven and eight edition of mountaineering are good climber and they do it for the best. When you follow those advice and you find perfect condition, it is perfect.
If you compare gypsy with recompense at cathedral, recompense his alway in better condition than gypsy and see more climber. But the quality and diversity of the move on gypsi is also very interesting. Gypsi is not in good condition, there is some dirt and it is a little bit hard to protect with cam. In fact, all route that are not in perfect condition are less travel. The grade of the route was lower to allow more people to climb a 5.10 route even if they can not say the difference between a 5.9 or a 5.10 other way than reading a book because it is sugestive. To that point, all is perfect...and I won't say any thing
When we climb in remote area (mt washington or other) we often have condition that are not perfect. And it is not always possible to avoid it. As I said using a sling around a nuts, it is a bad thing, but it could be better than nothing if the pro pop up because of rope movement. This is bad technique use in a good situation. All those aspect of climbing, that a leader most know when they climb, are not teach any more. You climb on bolt (I didn't say sport voluntary) you are confident, you climb nut crackers, place a lot of pro, you are an invincible 5.10, you climb british where coming at canon, a 5.8, and there is good chance that you died. In secret of the notch, I think, they describe it as a 5.8 for 5.10 climber, very dangerous and scary. Althought the crux is wonderfull and worth the climb...for a 5.10 climber (two belay link to make one,three or four nuts each belay and still, I was nervous of it solidity) I am not going to climb it a second time. Someone told me that it is like going in bike, you make a turn slowly, it is o.k., you make it faster, you did it, and you try to go at maximum speed and you are at the hospital. In climbing that sequence from easier to harder bring you at the hospital.
How can we avoid that people learn just what they need to be able to do a route? Some ask a description of the crux and beta to made it.nthat it an ethic and I respect them. Trad beginers have to understand that to be competent, they most know many techniques to be a survivor of the mountain. if a beginer want to do classic, route in perfect condition, just follow the good standard way to climb. if you want to onsight and do route rarely done, learn more. In doing it, you will see that knowing the clouds are important for trad climber as they can predict the weather with it. it take times to learn it and to see how fast it can change in the mountain. A climber most know that it is a part of trad climbing and he most be able to aid climb, climb on a rope, measure the fall factor, help an injure leader, eat and drink enought, have the good clothes, predict the time car to car, etc. I saw two quebec climber guetting out of the wood on canon, they miss the trail...it was midnight, with bugs and scratch on their legs every where.