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Author Topic: North Conway suggestions..  (Read 1607 times)

apbt1976

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #15 on: July 24, 2012, 12:11:29 AM »

Sorry if I wasn’t clear “where there are no easy bail options the climbing is only 5.4” Every where else you can bail from fixed anchors.

The 5.7 pitches have fixed anchors on huge pines. Up higher the climbing relaxes to 5.5ish, the ultra-fun 5.4 200 foot handcrack at the end... then 3 double rope raps back to the ground... I’ve never topped out on White’s... could be fun... then take the long hike back and around...

Sounds like a good time. Thanks for the help.

Seems like maybe i have worked my way through many of the popular 5.8 options on Cathedral and Whitehorse. It would also be great is the climbs where all at least 5.8-5.9 pitches. Yes i know i am asking quite a bit. I have scoured the new book and just ask as i figured i might be missing something that is right in front of me...
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eyebolter

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #16 on: July 24, 2012, 02:34:42 PM »

Recompense, retaliation. Pine tree eliminate, just for starters.

No bolts, are you Catholic ?

Just looked at my book. Done all those but Retaliation. How does the 5.9 pitch protect?



My old guide said "a good introduction to 5.9" - a sandbag if ever there was one.   A good introduction to 5.9 on a toprope, but strenuous to place the gear because you need to keep coming out of the best body position in order to see the crack.

It does protect great if you can hang in there.
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DLottmann

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2012, 03:03:16 PM »

LOL, definitely NOT a good intro to 5.9. Very sustained on lead. Awesome exposure/climb though. Not sure if it’s still closed for Peregrines?
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2012, 09:42:42 PM »

Sea of Holes? has a few bolt but tell your partner to get a grip :-[ he might need one (a grip)for the 50ft runout :)
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frik

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #19 on: July 25, 2012, 08:27:06 AM »

Considering that your CV contains Three Birches and Dierdre, you should seriously consider Book of Solemnity - the pro is good where you need it.

I'll second They Died Laughing, and Birds nest is good too.  Some of the best 5.9 cracks on the cliff.
 
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Jeff

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #20 on: July 25, 2012, 08:42:28 AM »

Dave: Re: Endeavor and topping out-- "the long hike back and around" is a mile and a quarter downhill to the road! Certainly not long for a guy who climbs Washington via the Great Gulf Headwall  8)--since White's Ledge on Mt. Stanton is practically in my Birchview back yard, the first 4-5 times I did Endeavor, I topped out and walked down (old alpinist style ;)); on all my recent ascents, I've avoided the dirty scrambling to the summit and rapped down. Is it THAT good, that I've repeated it so many times, you ask :o?? It is good, and a great route in the autumn--sun exposure makes it a bit warm in July-- and I've had quite a few friends visit who hadn't done it and were concerned about getting lost, so...
« Last Edit: July 25, 2012, 08:44:02 AM by Jeff »
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perswig

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #21 on: July 25, 2012, 09:13:04 AM »

If yer going to White's, consider Ten Years After and When the October Winds Blow (or whatever it's called).  Good .8-.9 climbing on good (occ tricky) gear, awesome crux on TYA.

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

strandman

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2012, 01:46:37 PM »

Short order, Avenger, Seventh Seal, Looselips (the 10a face has 3 bolts in 12'),
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steve weitzler

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #23 on: July 25, 2012, 02:48:24 PM »

If you are going to be at Cathedral you might want to take a drive down the road to Humphrey's and try some things there. Lots of good stuff.
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ELM

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Re: North Conway suggestions..
« Reply #24 on: July 25, 2012, 07:13:20 PM »

Sea of Holes? has a few bolt but tell your partner to get a grip :-[ he might need one (a grip)for the 50ft runout :)
     LOL...more like 80' and my partner just asked if I had brought my nuts. I got the meaning when I placed my first piece of gear and looked down.....we both laughed.
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ
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