Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[apbt1976]

Really i would like to stick to Cathedral and or Whitehorse. I am looking for trad climbs with minimal bolts "preferably none" in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. If 5.9 i would feel best about bolted belays or at the very least straight forward solid gear or even better natural features "trees/blocks".

So far in the area i have done Bombardment, Fun house, Three Birches, Black Lung, Upper Refuse, Recombeast, Diedre, Children's Crusade, Hotter Than Hell to Inferno, Cold Day In Hell. I may have done a few others in the area i am forgetting. Did a couple days at Humphrey's but i get a feeling that is mostly bolted climbing?

Endeavor looks fun but it is 5.7+ and not in North Conway and i am also not real sure about the belays?

[eyebolter]

Recompense, retaliation. Pine tree eliminate, just for starters.

No bolts, are you Catholic ?

[apbt1976]

Recompense, retaliation. Pine tree eliminate, just for starters.

No bolts, are you Catholic ?

Just looked at my book. Done all those but Retaliation. How does the 5.9 pitch protect?

It's not me that has a problem with bolts but one of my partners. Lets just leave that one alone as it will not go anywhere good and take the whole topic far off course. To be clear i dont mind a bolt now and then and welcome them for belays tbh..

[sneoh]

Come on, you got to do The Saigons!  Strand has the FA.  One(?) bolt on P2.
Also Atlantis.  How about The Book?  I followed the money pitch (a little spooky) so I do not remember the gear.
And a shorter one - They Died Laughing.

Did you climb all of Children's?

[apbt1976]

Come on, you got to do The Saigons!  Strand has the FA.  One(?) bolt on P2.
Also Atlantis.  How about The Book?  I followed the money pitch (a little spooky) so I do not remember the gear.
And a shorter one - They Died Laughing.

Did you climb all of Children's?

Did the Saigons. Also Rapid Transit....

Atlantis and the book going at 10a don't suit me well at this point. Although i would love to follow either this year. I am just far from ready to lead them at this point. 5.8 maybe 5.8+ is my comfort level at least this month we will see next month? I asked about climbs up to 5-9 as my partners this week are ok on well protected 9's.

Anything above 10 i have only followed at this point. And to be honest although i can climb up to 5.11 sport following 5.10 trad is still a challenge and i can rarely get a 5.10 trad move clean. Following 5.9 although at times takes 100% of my focus i can do clean 100% of the time. The crux on both Rapid Transit and Diedre got me, clearly i got through the moves just not in a way i could be proud of.

[DMan]

Recompense, retaliation. Pine tree eliminate, just for starters.

No bolts, are you Catholic ?

...
It's not me that has a problem with bolts but one of my partners. Lets just leave that one alone as it will not go anywhere good and take the whole topic far off course. To be clear i dont mind a bolt now and then and welcome them for belays tbh..

No way, spill the beans. If I am reading this right your partner only wants to climb gear protected routes with bolted belays. That makes no sense. We need to know more!

[apbt1976]

Recompense, retaliation. Pine tree eliminate, just for starters.

No bolts, are you Catholic ?

...
It's not me that has a problem with bolts but one of my partners. Lets just leave that one alone as it will not go anywhere good and take the whole topic far off course. To be clear i dont mind a bolt now and then and welcome them for belays tbh..

No way, spill the beans. If I am reading this right your partner only wants to climb gear protected routes with bolted belays. That makes no sense. We need to know more!

Ha!!!

No i only want to climb well protected 9's with him with bolted belays as 9 is his limit and i do not lead 9's at this point. He would rather no bolts but that is another topic...

[DMan]

Still confused... why a must for bolted belays? Or why not 9’s with gear anchors? Is it incase you have to bail or something?

[apbt1976]

Still confused... why a must for bolted belays? Or why not 9’s with gear anchors? Is it incase you have to bail or something?

Yup!!!!

[DMan]

Do you know a simple haul system? Not that you should be needing to break out a 5:1 every other pitch, but seriously, that shouldn’t be limiting your route choice.

[sneoh]

Atlantis has a 5.9 finish too (by traversing far right if I am not mistaken).  My friend wanted to lead the 5.10b finish so I let him .  I led the very nice but short P3 to the base of the BIG corner.  No longer sure about the anchors on all the climbs I've mentioned.  I did them a long time ago.

[DMan]

on topic, Endeavor is great, first two anchors are monster pines, plenty of fixed slings... where there are no easy bail options the climbing is 5.4.

[apbt1976]

Atlantis has a 5.9 finish too (by traversing far right if I am not mistaken).  My friend wanted to lead the 5.10b finish so I let him .  I led the very nice but short P3 to the base of the BIG corner.  No longer sure about the anchors on all the climbs I've mentioned.  I did them a long time ago.

Really really want to do Atlantis! I have a partner that can lead it just not this week. Sweet to know about the 5.9 finish i will try and read up on that asap.

[apbt1976]

on topic, Endeavor is great, first two anchors are monster pines, plenty of fixed slings... where there are no easy bail options the climbing is 5.4.

Really only 5.4.. book says 5.7 but i guess that is subjective right...

Still something i would like to do as it looks like a nice location and long climb..

[DMan]

Sorry if I wasn’t clear “where there are no easy bail options the climbing is only 5.4” Every where else you can bail from fixed anchors.

The 5.7 pitches have fixed anchors on huge pines. Up higher the climbing relaxes to 5.5ish, the ultra-fun 5.4 200 foot handcrack at the end... then 3 double rope raps back to the ground... I’ve never topped out on White’s... could be fun... then take the long hike back and around...