Author Topic: Must do classics in WV and NC?  (Read 1071 times)

Offline Stickyfingerz

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Must do classics in WV and NC?
« on: April 22, 2004, 08:09:12 am »
Howdy Y'All,

I'm in the process of putting together a 1-2 week roadtrip to the southeast, and I'm hoping for a little advice since I've never been there before. We're trying to hit up a bunch of moderate trad climbs and so far West Virginia and North Carolina seem to have the most to offer.

I have a couple of guidebooks, but the amount of info in them is difficult to digest. Possibilities include Seneca and Nelson Rocks in WV and Linville Gorge, Stone Mountain, and Looking Glass in NC, but I'm open to other areas if you think there's more/better climbing. What are the mega classic must do routes 5.8 and under? Where have you been before? What did you like/dislike about the climbing, climate, camping, driving, locals, etc.?

Any advice will be much appreciated. See you on the rocks.

~SF~
Courage is resistance to fear, mastery of fear, not absence of fear. - Mark Twain

Offline cklein

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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Must do classics in WV and NC?
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2004, 10:11:14 am »
 8)Seneca WV is one of the best craggs i have ever visited. Absolute trad heaven for moderate climbers with an awsome summit and great friendly people.  Seneca is also pretty safe and dosen't seem to have all the vehicle break in's that plague areas like the new and the red river gorges. Best Pay camping is seneca shadows  USFS  campground  up on the hill.  Free usfs dirtbag camping within 30 min of the crag, get local directions. Get Tony Barns Guide at the gendarme. Pizza and BYOB  beer on the porch above harpers  general store. the rt's are total sandbag but well worth the effort. If you are solid 5.8 leader you should be able to get up most of the sevens ;D Must do's are Gunsite to south peak direct 5.4 (really 5.7) Green wall 5.7 (actualy 5.7)  Pleasant Overhang with the Thais corner start 5.7  West Pole with the direct finish 5.7 Extacy 5.7 . On the east side  give Solar 5.7 a try. The Wide start can be avoided by starting on Conn's East 5.5  If you are feeling up to some 5.8  Tripple S will definatly get your attention but you can sew it right up. Alcoa Presents is awsome but you will have to actualy climb ;D Tomato is another great 5.8    Just think Daks and gunks rateings and you will be fine ::)

DLottmann

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Re: Must do classics in WV and NC?
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2004, 04:05:13 pm »
The Great Arch at Stone Mt. NC. (amazing 5.5 trad)
Exctasy (sp?) at Seneca is a great 3 pitch 5.7.

Offline epav

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Re: Must do classics in WV and NC?
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2004, 02:29:13 am »
Bumblebee Buttress 5.8, is relatively popular in Linville Gorge - 3 good sized pitches.  Just remember you have to climb out, and it rains frequently.  The weather could be pretty good there about now, or maybe still cold that high up.  The Mummy is longer and easier.

On Stone, Yardarm (5.8) is probably the only 5.8 to do - easy pitch, 2 5.8 pitches, then maybe another to the top.  Most of the 9's are also classic - but also run out, of course.  However, with sticky rubber (now way past its 20th birthday) they are easier than rated - Great White Way, Teflon Trip, Pandora's & Mercury's Lead are all wonderful if you can stand that kind of thing.  Grand Funk is popular but I don't care as much for it.  Crack climbing to a short friction crux - gear's too near, there's no chance to get your acute angle vision dialed in first, and there's lots of less than stellar plodding to reach the top.  The others I mentioned are more sustained.

If you get down to the Glass, then Rat's Ass (2 pitches) and the Nose and Sundial (3 each) are well liked and in the sun.  Funky climbing on the latter two - needs to be experienced! Titties and Beer is a feasible, well protected 5.9 - but the crux is at the top.

If the weather runs warm, then Moore's Wall offers some good steep trad jug-hauling facing north west, from 6 on up through the 11s.  Put pro in before you get pumped.  Zoo View is the classic 5.8 there. (the 5.8 left of Quaker State (whatever it's called) is good, and Golden Earring (5.7) to the right is a real nice line)

Grades in NC are easier than the NE, and clearly easier than Seneca - but the pro can be scarce at times!


Offline Rime

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Re: Must do classics in WV and NC?
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2004, 06:14:40 am »
The southeastern area climbing links doesn't include Moore's Wall, in Hanging Rock State Park.  That is a really great cliff, and I'd highly recommend it.  The Zoo View area and the far left end of that section of cliff are highly recommended.  But you should check possible route options in your guide book against the peregrine closure area on the state park web site.  Also, it's been years since I was there, but we camped at the state campground and were locked out one evening when we returned too late.  We parked our car outside the campground gate and it was vandalized over night.  You can hike over to the cliff instead of driving around to avoid the gate trouble.

Stone Mountain is a great cliff as well, although besides the great arch, just about all the routes are friction climbs and have substantial run-outs.  Others may disagree, but it seems like a day  - or two days -  was plenty there.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Must do classics in WV and NC?
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2004, 08:01:23 am »
 8)I have been to seneca 5 times and have no problem spending a week to 10 days there at a time. somthing like 450 rt's in the barns guide 8)