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[danf]

Took my kids up to Lost Ledge last weekend and climbed a couple of the easier routes on the Carpet Slab.  Some of the "anchors" up there are more than a little sketchy, and I'm sure I'm not the only one with that opinion.  Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are about replacing the existing 1/4" bolts/homemade anchors with modern stuff?  I've drilled lots of rock, but can't say as I've ever done it attached to a rope so any insight anyone can give would be great. 

Just so everyone is clear, it's stuff like this that I'm talking about:

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/424331_503494906330978_1514437876_n.jpg

[Admin Al]

I agree, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace those puppies...

[strandman]

Is MRS/IME still doing the anchor donation thing

[Admin Al]

Is MRS/IME still doing the anchor donation thing

if someone wants to go out and replace these anchors, they can get them from the MRS.

[JBrochu]

Is MRS/IME still doing the anchor donation thing

if someone wants to go out and replace these anchors, they can get them from the MRS.

You sure? A friend was going to replace some anchors and was denied. Do you have to be well known or something? (Friend is competent with anchor replacement, but none of us are well known in the area despite being weekend warriors for years.)

 

[Admin Al]

denied, really? who did they talk to? what anchors were they talking about replacing?

[JBrochu]

They talked to someone at the desk at IME.

I believe the anchors were a few 1/4" jobbers on Interloper (1st pitch anchor bolts I believe) and a 1/4" on Sliding Board.

Also think the bolt protecting the direct variation (straight up instead of going to the brown spot) on WH Standard Route should be replaced sometime.

[Admin Al]

I'll look into it...tho I'm not that hooked into the current iteration of the MRS

[Flotsam]

Yup I've been denied.

Al recommended we get the drill and access to the cash of preferred bolts to fix up some stuff so we can do a good job.   

http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php/topic,3996.msg23664.html#msg23664  Al said that in 2008 but why do today what you can put off 'till tomorrow.... We just figured the policy had changed.

I inquired maybe a year or two ago.  We were feeling all community service like so we cruze in there thinking this will be great, replace some bolts and not spend hours hammering.  It's not like we're totally unknown, I've been going there for over 15 years now and my partner he's not new either, I've heard he invented dirt.  So we start talking to counter weight, chit chat, how's it going etc, blah, blah... Then I drop the question which we always assumed was a "no" but figured we'd try.  "hey I'm told there is access to the drill and preferred bolts for anchor upgrading on Whitehorse"  I get told (more or less because it's been a while now) "no drill for that only MRS use, no bolts, MRS doesn't have any bolts...."

[nuts]

You don't need permission to replace a shit anchor, just be sure replacement is necessary and be sure to install the bolts properly and use modern ring anchors so a tat situation isn't created.

If you don't want to do it on your own dime, talk to Rick at IME.

Anchor and cliff maintenance is a community effort, we're all responsible.

[strandman]

i don't know how often they do it, but Fixe was more than generous with a recent bebolt out here at Peneitente Canyon,, great stuff

If you are doing it by hand, a couple of  3/8" powers with fixe single ring anchor is fine for many applications and not to pricey

[Admin Al]

Ask Rick directly or better yet go upstairs and talk to Brad.

[JBrochu]

You don't need permission to replace a shit anchor, just be sure replacement is necessary and be sure to install the bolts properly and use modern ring anchors so a tat situation isn't created.

If you don't want to do it on your own dime, talk to Rick at IME.

Anchor and cliff maintenance is a community effort, we're all responsible.

We've replaced several anchors on our own dime on older climbs out in the woods.

My only purpose in bringing this up is that Al has mentioned several times on this site that a drill and bolts are readily available for anchor replacement - and that may not in fact be the case. It could well be that the policy has changed, or that the person at the counter of IME was misinformed, or that one needs to be part of the "insiders club" to get access to the drill and bolts, we're not really sure.

Regarding needing permission: We wouldn't normally seek it. However, Cathedral and Whitehorse tend to be somewhat special cases. I don't think I have to elaborate any more than saying it's probably best to have locals in agreement with a decision to replace bolts before commencing with the effort.

 

 

[danf]

Regarding needing permission: We wouldn't normally seek it. However, Cathedral and Whitehorse tend to be somewhat special cases. I don't think I have to elaborate any more than saying it's probably best to have locals in agreement with a decision to replace bolts before commencing with the effort.

I knew Cathedral and Whitehorse have been discussed quite heavily in the past.  I wasn't sure how much those discussions extended beyond those two ledges though, thus the reason I asked here.

[JBrochu]

I would say for the stuff out in the woods, and certainly for anything 1/4" or otherwise suspect (homemade and clearly not bomber, rusted, etc.) if you're willing to spend the money and effort, and you know how to place a solid bolt - then go for it.

If you have thick skin then go for the ones on Cathedral and Whitehorse too!

In seriousness, all of the bolt controversy I've heard of involved adding new bolts to existing climbs not replacing manky old  stuff.