General > Rock Climbing: Sport

Fixed quickdraw failure at Berekley Ironworks Gym

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steven cooney:
Just read on supertopo that a fixed draw failed under body weight at the Berkeley Ironworks.  The OP stated it failed as the climber asked for belayer to take.  Failed at the fixed link.
The climber was fortunate to have a soft floor to land on.
At Rumney and most sport areas nearly any fixed quickdraw failure would be disastrous.


sneoh:
This was the post on Supertopo -
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1919028&tn=40

Quote - "It was a draw that had been in place for a while. Again, the climber asked for a take and the webbing broke at the screw link upon weighting it. I don't know it was pure body weight only, in that sometimes people take when they're above the draw and swing on the draw; it definitely wasn't a whipper. At the gym this morning, I saw more than half of the draws have been replaced with brand new ones with Touchstone lettering sewn in."

Not that unusual for the webbing of a draw to break due to abrasion.  I have seen this happen at least once before at a gym.  IMHO, gyms should use steel chain or cable draws, and not nylon or Dyneema draws. 
A bad situation but not as nearly as bad as having your lead rope sliced by a sharp/overworn "fixed" biner - which is something that has happened at multiple sport crags just the past two seasons.

DMan:
God... it took me 35 seconds of browsing that thread to come running back to NEClimbs...

Pure gym rats are so dangerous!*

*unfair sweeping generalization backed by 35 seconds of reading a bare minimum of posts in that topic.

Bottom line in my detailed 35 second analysis of the incident, climbing forums are as sensational as national media

JBrochu:
Dman if you think The Taco is bad, you should take a look at rockclimbing.com sometime. It's like poking yourself in the eye with a burning stick.

(Yes I must like pain because I read that shit once-in-a-while lolz.) 

M_Sprague:
I have never understood why gyms don't have very regular inspection of their draws. I have seen ones even at otherwise very good gyms that were very sketchy. Yes, I let the gym know.

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