General > Rock Climbing: Trad

"Typical" rack?

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danf:
I'm starting to think about trying to put together a rack as money allows... Question is, what is considered a "full rack" for this area?  There's obvious items- nuts, tapers, etc- but is a single set enough?  And what sizes?  What are the common cam sizes that are used (I know each manufacturer labels differently...)?  How many people use tri-cams?

Before anyone asks, I have no experience leading or following trad at this point.  It is definitely something I want to learn though.  I want to start putting together a rack now, so that when I am at the point of climbing trad routes (either leading or following) I don't show up empty-handed.  I do want to start playing around with the gear on the ground (or even on sport climbs) to familiarize myself with it. 

Thanks for any insight!

tradmanclimbz:
Start with a single set of stoppers  BD sizes or equivilant #4 to #13  eventualy you will want doubbles of #4 to #8 a single set of cams from 1/4 in to 3" would be the eventual goal.

sneoh:
To OP, looks like you might be a number of months late for a great deal on a complete rack from Al :) -
http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php/topic,5728.0.html 

p.s.  Do not even get people like Strand started on tri-cams!  I used them some in NH but much more so at The Gunks.

DMan:
Don't "double up" on ANYTHING until you have some mileage under your belt. Many, many, new climbers over-buy out of eagerness early on. I would recommend:

1 set of BD Stoppers, size 4-13
The Pink, Brown, and Blue Tri-cam
A few finger-tip cams, either aliens or C3's
BD Cams .4 thru #2 or #3
8 shoulder length slings
16 biner's for above slings, I like the Petzl Ange if you go dyneema for above slings
2 quick draws
2 double length nylon slings
1 shoulder length nylon sling (for racking)
1 cordelette
5 lockers
1 belay device
2 prussiks

That's my general set-up for most anything New England. Occasionally you need something else but your route research will tell you that and by then you'll know who to borrow it from.

And since I learned from a lot of reading and some professional guides, and later became a guide, I'd suggest finding one of those as well, unless you can hook up with an awesome mentor, or squared away climbing club/group. A few days with a good guide can be well worth it...

My guiding philosophy: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/guiding-philosophy/

Smear:
Hey Dman,
one thing I would add is the Red tricam. ;)

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