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Author Topic: "Typical" rack?  (Read 2843 times)

JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #30 on: September 10, 2012, 03:42:19 PM »

Also: carrying extra rap rings in you chalk bag is moronic.

I obviously don't need to carry them, and didn't advocate for OP to carry them, but I can't see how it's in any way moronic.

Two aluminum rap rings weigh almost nothing. There are still lots of places on the cliffs out in the woods where people just rap off a sling without leaving a quicklink, biner, or rings. In those places I cut the tat off and put up a new sling with both rings.

You know what I carry - it's a little more than you, but it's not like I'm walking around with an El Cap rack, or even as much stuff as the average NE trad climber.

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-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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DLottmann

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #31 on: September 10, 2012, 05:36:42 PM »

Wow... is there a topic we can have on this website that doesn't get heated?

There are climbers who just add more slings to a rats nest, and there are climbers who are considerate.

ANY rap anchor with more than 2-3 slings/cords on it is bullshit IMO. Cut out the crappy old ones so you can inspect what is left, and add a new one if you have any concern. But adding a new sling to a ratty 5 sling anchor is so 1970 of you ;)

IMO Tricams are more useful in MWV than hexes... Don't forget they can be placed passively as well...

I haven't carried a Hex since 2001. I would recommend them before doubling up on #1-#4 BD cams though...

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DLottmann

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #32 on: September 10, 2012, 05:43:27 PM »

How many people have actually ever had to tie off the leader while the leader was knocked out ???? You have to detach from the belay?? Wow ! and then what do you do ?

How did the leader get knocked out on an overhang ?

Not many I'd guess, but I've seen a few unconscious leader's hanging from ropes and I don't feel like I've been at it that long (not my party).

What do you do after detaching from the belay? You ascend the loaded rope to help your partner! Or you call for a rescue. What would you do?

The injury/accident reference in the OTHER thread was not the leader getting knocked out, it was a lowering of the 2nd accident.... Lost control of lowering her back to non-overhanging terrain resulting in sudden deceleration onto a ledge, mainly because lowering someone on an auto-locking plate sucks to begin with and coupled with belaying 2 people at the same time with the same device further complicates the problem.
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strandman

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #33 on: September 10, 2012, 07:08:45 PM »

I love this thread.. a guy asks about a basic rack and we talk about somebody dead, hanging on the rope.

other than to get ready to rap, i have never, not once untied from the belay... If the leader is knocked out, then you are in deep shit, esp with one rope.  "you OK ?' If no answer, then good luck. Ya i know how to do it but it's  pretty complicated.

Cams 1"-3"
wires #1-6
biners
slings

That will do ya
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M_Sprague

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #34 on: September 10, 2012, 07:42:30 PM »

What if the leader is passed out, John?

John"s suggestion is a good  stripped down version of what I was thinking. I would want more smaller cams and a full set of nuts to add to that though.

IMO, to start, I really wouldn't feel any rush to run out and buy a bunch of gear just yet. You should and most likely will be following an experienced leader who already has a rack and most leaders prefer leading with their own rack, grabbing a few toys out of yours if they don't have them. They probably would be most happy if you brought a good new rope to beat on rather than theirs and offer to carry a big chunk of the weight. The tradition is that the noobe always carries the rope (plus some of the rack if possible).

As far as getting stuff, once you have a few lockers and a handful of shoulder slings plus two biners per sling (you can make them, but knotted slings can be a pain since the knot catches on things like when you extend your sling from the tripled up alpine draw configuration), I'd pick up a nut tool and a set of rocks or stoppers. For the tool, I would suggest one with a clip and a nice rounded end that doesn't cut into your palm if you have to tap it a little. (there is an art to using them. Force is usually not the way). For a second set of nuts I would recommend some offset ones. If you don't already have them, you should get some quickdraws, various lengths. Next, when you can you will want a good set of cams, like a set of Camalot C4s. They will be what your partner first rifles through  to fill out their rack most likely. I'd skip the #s 5 and 6. I hardly ever use mine. I do use the #4 though. You can get a set of the "favorite" sizes, #.5 to 3 for under $300 and then pick up the #4 and the two smaller sizes when you save up. I think it is worth getting a set of those matching colored Nuetrino biners for racking your cams. I like the biners anyway, but the colors make grabbing the correct cam just that much faster.

That is already a pretty good rack. As you go on and find you like leading certain types of routes you may want to fill it out with more specialized gear like a few more small cams or micro stoppers, but unless you are a gear hog, wait until you have actually used a friends and found them useful and needed. If you climb a bunch on the Whitehorse slabs or at the Gunks, you will probably find a few tricams handy. Hexes can be useful, but if you stay trad climbing, you really are going to want a set of cams. Put the money towards the cams before hexes.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2012, 08:53:45 PM by M_Sprague »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #35 on: September 10, 2012, 08:34:48 PM »

The knife is for when the leader is dead or close to dead on the sharp end and you need to get home in time for the  football game :P
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JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #36 on: September 10, 2012, 08:40:03 PM »

If the OP hadn't mentioned funding issues then I'd advocate for cams etc ...... money solves all problems.


OP asked what is considered a typical "full rack" for the area. He didn't ask what the bare essential minimum rack is to start with.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

apbt1976

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #37 on: September 10, 2012, 09:54:28 PM »

The knife is for when the leader is dead or close to dead on the sharp end and you need to get home in time for the  football game :P

Yeah no fuck ups or wasting time on Sundays. Gotta be home in time for the game if at all possible. Last  couple years it was no problem for me as i did all my climbing during the week. This year i think my partners are gonna be weekend guys. I have not missed a football game in 2 years. May be a tough football season for me this year. Conflict of interest.

Hows your dog doing ;)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #38 on: September 10, 2012, 10:00:21 PM »

Is not me Dog...
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sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #39 on: September 10, 2012, 10:35:29 PM »

Not real time but you football fans ought to get a TiVo or DVR or equivalent so you can have the cake and eat it too! :)
Not too many rock climbing weekends left in NE for 2012 so make the best use of them!
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apbt1976

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #40 on: September 11, 2012, 12:59:02 AM »

Not real time but you football fans ought to get a TiVo or DVR or equivalent so you can have the cake and eat it too! :)
Not too many rock climbing weekends left in NE for 2012 so make the best use of them!

Shoulder season football then the best season of all "ICE SEASON" plus i just got some big old tires for the truck that make a mess of deep snow and ice. Should be a good winter so long as my feet don't shit the bed on me? If they do i guess i will just hibernate in front of the tv Sunday and Monday night. Tuesday - Friday could be tough though!
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #41 on: September 11, 2012, 06:37:30 AM »

I could actuaLLY care less about football. just making a joke. one year i climbed ice so late didn't get home untill the 2nd half of the super bowl...
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apbt1976

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #42 on: September 11, 2012, 09:34:06 AM »

I could actuaLLY care less about football. just making a joke. one year i climbed ice so late didn't get home untill the 2nd half of the super bowl...

Lucky you no conflict of interests  :-*

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danf

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #43 on: September 11, 2012, 08:40:58 PM »

Wow, out of all the various forums I'm on, I think you guys take the cake for thread re-directing....  :D

Leader falls, lowering the second, football and truck tires aside for a second....  I guess I should have mentioned that I am well equipped for toproping and reasonably equipped for sport.  Between regular quickdraws and alpines, I've got around a dozen.  Rope, yes.  Webbing, more than I care to think about at the moment (though there's about 8' less since I left some on top of the Carpet Slab last weekend....).  Lockers- way more than the 2-3 you guys mention. 

Nuts/stoppers have been at the top of my mental list to buy for quite a while (probably because they are about the cheapest from what I've seen).  It's the quantities and all the other stuff that I was unsure of. 

Oh, and FWIW, I usually have a knife on me at all times- even when I'm climbing.  It does not typically get used near the climbing rope, and when I do use it I make sure to cut away from the rope.  Case in point- I cut off an old piece of cord from anchors on the Carpet Slab last weekend simply to have room to clip myself into the anchors while I set up a belay.  If I hadn't had the knife, clipping in would have been difficult at best.
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DWT

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #44 on: September 11, 2012, 08:52:42 PM »

  If I hadn't had the knife, clipping in would have been difficult at best.

Viola! :P

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