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Author Topic: "Typical" rack?  (Read 2715 times)

danf

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"Typical" rack?
« on: September 07, 2012, 09:31:05 PM »

I'm starting to think about trying to put together a rack as money allows... Question is, what is considered a "full rack" for this area?  There's obvious items- nuts, tapers, etc- but is a single set enough?  And what sizes?  What are the common cam sizes that are used (I know each manufacturer labels differently...)?  How many people use tri-cams?

Before anyone asks, I have no experience leading or following trad at this point.  It is definitely something I want to learn though.  I want to start putting together a rack now, so that when I am at the point of climbing trad routes (either leading or following) I don't show up empty-handed.  I do want to start playing around with the gear on the ground (or even on sport climbs) to familiarize myself with it. 

Thanks for any insight!
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2012, 09:40:33 PM »

Start with a single set of stoppers  BD sizes or equivilant #4 to #13  eventualy you will want doubbles of #4 to #8 a single set of cams from 1/4 in to 3" would be the eventual goal.
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sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2012, 10:13:15 PM »

To OP, looks like you might be a number of months late for a great deal on a complete rack from Al :) -
http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php/topic,5728.0.html 

p.s.  Do not even get people like Strand started on tri-cams!  I used them some in NH but much more so at The Gunks.
« Last Edit: September 07, 2012, 10:15:09 PM by sneoh »
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2012, 10:41:19 PM »

Don't "double up" on ANYTHING until you have some mileage under your belt. Many, many, new climbers over-buy out of eagerness early on. I would recommend:

1 set of BD Stoppers, size 4-13
The Pink, Brown, and Blue Tri-cam
A few finger-tip cams, either aliens or C3's
BD Cams .4 thru #2 or #3
8 shoulder length slings
16 biner's for above slings, I like the Petzl Ange if you go dyneema for above slings
2 quick draws
2 double length nylon slings
1 shoulder length nylon sling (for racking)
1 cordelette
5 lockers
1 belay device
2 prussiks

That's my general set-up for most anything New England. Occasionally you need something else but your route research will tell you that and by then you'll know who to borrow it from.

And since I learned from a lot of reading and some professional guides, and later became a guide, I'd suggest finding one of those as well, unless you can hook up with an awesome mentor, or squared away climbing club/group. A few days with a good guide can be well worth it...

My guiding philosophy: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/guiding-philosophy/
« Last Edit: September 07, 2012, 10:46:27 PM by DMan »
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Smear

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2012, 06:18:39 AM »

Hey Dman,
one thing I would add is the Red tricam. ;)
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strandman

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2012, 09:49:31 AM »

I much prefer Wild Country Rocks to BD stoppers,,, no need for any tiny cams right away...1"-3: is fine.. I like WC or Wired Bliss.

Cordalette ? nope,, prussiks ?  never used them, they get in the way, a standard sling can do the same thing. MORE BINERS !!!!!
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DWT

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2012, 09:57:59 AM »

I would add a lightweight knife to the kit.  I keep a small knife and tibloc on a biner that never leaves my harness.
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sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2012, 10:17:34 AM »

Yeah, red tri-cam.  Good size. :)   And I prefer DMM Wall Nuts.
And, DMan, why 5 locking biners, not just 3 and more non-locking?
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strandman

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2012, 12:42:04 PM »

Lockers ?  I used to own two, lost one and never had a need for two again. It goes on my harness and comes off at the end of the day.
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JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2012, 12:44:41 PM »

Yeah, red tri-cam.  Good size. :)   And I prefer DMM Wall Nuts.
And, DMan, why 5 locking biners, not just 3 and more non-locking?

I was going to say practically the same thing, pink and red tricam (usually not carried except for on whitehorse or at the gunks) and I only carry 2 lockers - one for tying in to belay and one for when I need to come off the belay onto a leash. (My partners always carry their own 2 lockers.) I could see 3 lockers though, because sometimes it's cool to have one available for a critical clip.

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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2012, 12:46:58 PM »

Lockers ?  I used to own two, lost one and never had a need for two again. It goes on my harness and comes off at the end of the day.

Curious, if you're tied into the belay and need to come off onto a leash, what do you do?
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2012, 12:55:06 PM »

Yeah, 4 lockers between leader and second should be just about ideal.  Carry 3 lockers like JBrochu said if your second only has one.  If I find myself a locker short, I use two non-locking with opposite gates and opposed at the anchor(s).  I sometimes use a locker for a critical piece, e.g., Jesus nut.  And one of my lockers is on the rope end of a draw.

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2012, 12:55:23 PM »

It takes two lockers to use a Reverso or Atc Guide for belaying a second of an anchor, plus 1 to clove in with, so Ild say 3 minimum.
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sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2012, 01:00:44 PM »

Ah, DMan, now I get it.  Yes, not being a guide,  I do not yet own one of these fancier devices.  Thinking about it though.  On that note, which do you prefer?  Reverso 3 or ATC Guide?

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #14 on: September 08, 2012, 01:03:32 PM »

I would add a lightweight knife to the kit.  I keep a small knife and tibloc on a biner that never leaves my harness.

I keep my tiny little knife in the zippered pouch on my chalkbag, along with 2 aluminum rap rings in case I want to replace/clean up some tat in the woods. For the same reason, a few of my shoulder slings are always tied nylon.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck
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