Author Topic: "Typical" rack?  (Read 3235 times)

Offline sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #45 on: September 12, 2012, 12:08:04 AM »
There had been times at The Gunks in the past and once on Mechanics Route when I wished I had a knife to cut away some of the scary tat.  Not so much at Whitehorse/Cathedral if I recall correctly.  The fixed slings there appeared 'better maintained'.
Unless the slings are around a big tree, I think two beefy glue-in grey eye-bolts for anchor is so much cleaner and easy on the eye; no more bright-colored tat to attract unwanted attention.


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Admin Al

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #46 on: September 12, 2012, 06:50:49 AM »
Wow, out of all the various forums I'm on, I think you guys take the cake for thread re-directing....  :D

ain't it the truth...
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Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #47 on: September 12, 2012, 06:51:35 AM »
Last time we were up on the last unicorn the belays were horrid! so much grey tat through the bolt hangers that you couldn't clip in the bolts...   they should be rigged with quick links or short sections of chain if they are not even enough for links. sometimes you can even them out by putting two links on one bolt and one quick link w/ 3 links of logging chain on the other. Bolts should never Ever be rigged with nylon as a permanent anchor.

Offline sneoh

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #48 on: September 12, 2012, 07:17:10 AM »
To the OP, yes, a nut tool is good thing to get along with the Stoppers, Wall Nuts, etc.  Small knife?  Sure, if it is not expensive.
About "Bolts should never Ever be rigged with nylon as a permanent anchor.", I feel the same way as well.  Hopefully more and more climbers will come around too! :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #49 on: September 12, 2012, 09:13:29 AM »
So, should you carry a knife when watching football ?

I have one of those Petzl folding knives but it lives in my van.

Offline JBrochu

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #50 on: September 12, 2012, 09:16:38 AM »
So, should you carry a knife when watching football ?

Probably, and most certainly if you ever go watch football games in Oakland.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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Offline Davewalks

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #51 on: September 14, 2012, 09:14:12 PM »
Especially in Northern NE, rocks and tri-cams are very cool...tri-cams can be tricky, but good ones are as good as it gets....bad ones suck.

I am not dogmatic about how to set up/equalize anchors, as long as they are equalized or distributed. And--well--cams have their place and their limits. They aren't automatically solid:) And...if you started climbing recently, you probably haven't seen a bolt that looks scarier than a nice #1 stopper.....:)

Offline danf

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Re: "Typical" rack?
« Reply #52 on: December 10, 2012, 09:43:24 PM »
And...if you started climbing recently, you probably haven't seen a bolt that looks scarier than a nice #1 stopper.....:)
I posted a pic/link to some pretty sketchy looking bolts on the Carpet Slab, those were bad enough.  Fortunately it's a pretty mild slab, my 6 and 9 year old kids had no issues with that climb so the sketchy-ness of the bolts didn't bother me too much.

Just updating this...  Thanks mostly to Mountain Project classifieds, eBay, Gear Express, and excellent deals I got through EMS (thanks goes to DMan for heads-up on some of it!).... I now have a complete (1-10) set of WC Rocks, some odds and ends of some other nuts, tri-cams .25-2, and essentially all of the C4 sizes covered up to a 3 with a double or 2 thrown in for at least one size (not all are BD's- got a Trango and a couple WC Heliums in the mix on the smaller end).  A couple of nut tools, plenty of slings, draws and 'biners.

What sucks is I'm trying to keep my girlfriend's gear needs in mind too since she is who I primarily climb with.  Talk about doubling the cost!

Most importantly, my kids will have their own climbing helmets under the tree this year! No more adjusting my Ecrin Roc down all the way and trying to adjust the straps to keep it on their heads. :)