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Author Topic: competence for trad climber  (Read 2325 times)

WanderlustMD

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #30 on: July 10, 2012, 08:44:38 PM »

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My initial thought when I read this was "who freakin cares."  In the end as long as people climb safely and ethically, I don't give a rip if every piece belongs in a textbook and it takes 3 hours per pitch.  Maybe the dude doesn't have the time to find regular partners and has the cash to pump in to a guide.  As long as he's having a grand ol time, I don't care and it shouldn't really matter.  

I get what you are saying. There's nothing wrong with climbing slow, but if the weather goes south and it's time to for the afterburners, such an approach can be bad. If someone wants to snail their way along, fine with me I guess, but I can't say it's the best approach.

Re: Al and above, this sort of thing strikes me more as learning curve than anything else. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think that if anyone climbs long enough, they will eventually move beyond the guide and develop speed, which is a function (partially) of confidence. The realization that nothing they do can be made 100% safe eventually settles inside them, and they choose to either keep climbing or not. Or they stay with a guide. Whatever.




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Maybe they're socially awkward and a guide is the only way they can get a partner.
 

All climbers are socially awkward.

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One of my  buddies used to climb almost only with guides.  In the end, he just felt more comfortable especially with his skill level and limited time.
Good for him for being honest with himself
 
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He and I connected, and I fooled him in to thinking I'm a good partner.  We got comfortable and have a good ol time.  He still uses guides when he feels necessary, but it doesn't really matter.
Even better.
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WanderlustMD

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #31 on: July 10, 2012, 08:47:11 PM »

And another from me! After 3 straight days on the rock, I enjoyed a lazy Sunday brunch with my lovely wife; later I may scrub the mildew off the deck (or not) but I won't be typing much more!!

"No one would climb if we weren't allowed to talk about it." -Donini
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meclimber

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #32 on: July 11, 2012, 01:33:27 PM »

Matt, all I gotta say is that you have the entire east side and the valley to play with for the next few weeks.  How about you leave the pointless bickering to us and actually get some climbing done :) :)

I expect more pictures!
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Jon Howard

perswig

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #33 on: July 11, 2012, 05:17:18 PM »

^^
Ditto on the request for another pic-filled TR when you're back.  Climb safe, have fun!
Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

WanderlustMD

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #34 on: July 11, 2012, 06:23:05 PM »

Matt, all I gotta say is that you have the entire east side and the valley to play with for the next few weeks.  How about you leave the pointless bickering to us and actually get some climbing done :) :)

I expect more pictures!

ha, you caught me during my 2 days of beach/work time in Monterey. It's a hard life.
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DWT

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Re: competence for trad climber
« Reply #35 on: July 17, 2012, 04:33:09 PM »

Jumping Jesus on a pogo stick!  Champ, write a nonsensical book and quit suckering me into spending 15 minutes wasting my time reading this poop. Ugh, I cant believe I fell for it again! *queue kick in the nuts......

I am going climbing tomorrow at Tumble down dick! It may have some sport and may have some trad. But Im climbing, and I will be happy! (And enjoying a few jokes at your expense). Climb more, type less!

Bill Keiler

Classic!   :D
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